We’ve been in Broome for a little over two weeks now. Checking into the caravan park we were given what has clearly become a standard spiel, ‘don’t leave anything valuable out, especially car keys, and don’t leave your car keys hanging near the door inside your caravan’. This was followed up by an email stating the same. Apparently it isn’t uncommon to awake to find someone inside your van who has managed to snib the door open while the occupants sleep.
We’ve seen and heard things over the years that indicate the local youth and sadly, in particular, the local indigenous youth, have been becoming aware that the tourist season opens up opportunities for theft, especially car theft. Now it seems that Broome is joining the rest of the northern parts in Australia in resembling what can only be described as a lawless society. The crime rate is definitely escalating. Broome is losing its sleepy little town in paradise feel. Sad indeed!!
Our son and daughter in law were due to leave Darwin a couple of days after we arrived. They were bringing a tent, but not being able to get a site at our caravan park, had booked somewhere a little out of town. Hearing about the warnings heralded a change of plan. They cancelled their site, and instead have their tent sent up on our site, their portable fridge chained to our caravan wheel, and when we go out, their electronics and valuables are hidden away and locked in our caravan.
Kelvin has spent time in Broome previously, but this is Dara’s first visit. With everything secured as best as possible, we’ve been out and about. They are loving it.
Swimming during the day at Cable Beach, then playing around as the sun go down in the evening.
Exploring Ridell Beach and Entrance Point.
There’s no way I would have been tempted to climb into that hole…. He may have turned 50, but there’s still plenty of the thrill seeker from his teenage years left inside. Pleased there weren’t any snakes down there.
We’ve managed to get into a few restaurants, you have to book, sometimes weeks in advance. The Aarli Bar has been the stand out so far – it always is. We went to Ladies Day at the Broome races – left early, and decided we’d give the Broome cup race day a miss. Went fishing a few times from town jetty, caught nothing except a cold.
Today we’re heading up to Cygnet Bay pearl farm for a boat tour. I’ll let you know more about later, but now I’d better go and get ready.
We spent our last night at Sandfire Roadhouse before getting to Broome. It’s not normally a place we choose to stay at as usually we take advantage of the free 24 hour roadside stop overs, but on this occasion we had an engel full of frozen things so we needed power to keep everything frozen. As well as that, as this is most likely our last hurrah in the caravan, it will be the last chance for us to see the peacocks that Sandfire is famous for.
Even though they didn’t fan out their feathers for us, they didn’t disappoint. There certainly was plenty of them, and they were stunning.
In the evening we had a beer and shared a burger in their el fresco area. I hadn’t realised peacocks roosted in trees overnight, but they clearly do. We were very careful as to where we walked.
We’ve been in Broome for four nights now. The weather has been absolutely perfect, approximately 30 degrees every day, soft breezes, and cool enough for a good nights sleep overnight. Meanwhile storms, winds and heavy rains are lashing our home town of Busselton….. We’re happy campers!
As a teenager Alice went to Kalbarri on a school hike – she hated it! But that was almost 35 years ago, and gear has changed considerably over that time, as has Alice. As I remember it, the hike was in the inland gorges and took several days, with the gear divided between each of the hikers to carry. They didn’t have two person tents weighing less than a kilo as we do know, nor did Alice have any lightweight hiking gear, or sturdy boots. I think her pack weighed approximately twice the recommended weight for a person of her weight. She now loves hiking, and I’m sure given half a chance she’d gladly re-trace her footsteps from her school days, and with today’s gear, I’m sure she’d love it.
Kalbarri is almost all national park, with rugged and beautiful gorges inland, all fringed by the most amazing rugged coastline. We had intended to do a couple of the shorter inland gorge walks, but it was school holidays, and the amount of cars in the car parks at the start of the walks caused us to think again. How wonderful that so many families are taking advantage of the school holidays to immerse their children in nature at it’s best. We left the inland gorges for the families to enjoy and Instead headed for the coast. I posted several of the photos a few days ago. Here are a few more, including a couple of videos.
We stayed at Red Bluff Caravan park for this visit, which is a little out of town. We’re so pleased we did as only two minutes walk from the caravan park took us down to, what we thought was the best of the coastal cliffs area. On the first night the sea was quite ferocious so we couldn’t safely venture to far, but on our last night the water was a lot more gentle allowing us to venture around the rocks far enough to take the above photos and videos. On a wild night, such as the first night we were there, the power in the ocean is frightening, and has to be respected. Hence our videos show a gentle sea in comparison to how wild it can be. I hope you enjoy them anyway.
We enjoyed Kalbarri. We’re now in Carnarvon, the fruit bowl of WA. We’ve restocked our fridge with delicious avocados, cucumbers, capsicum, cabbage, beans, broccoli, and loads of sun ripened tomatoes. Our washing is all done, the sun is shining, and tomorrow we’re ready to move onto Coral Bay – a place very close to our hearts. But tonight the spud van is due to arrive, and with it I believe there’ll be entertainment (we’re at the Wintersun caravan park, and there’s always plenty going on at the Wintersun). I’d better go and tidy myself a bit …..
We’ve been to Kalbarri twice before and both times it’s been so windy that we’ve left earlier than planned. Arriving at the Red Bluff caravan park at 11am yesterday we hoped this time would be different. A gentleman came out to us on his quad bike, ”do you have a booking?” he asked. We confirmed that indeed we did. ”You’re to early”, he says, ”check in time is 2pm”.
Mmmm – welcome to Kalbarri. We drove into town, parked up and went in search of lunch. Lots of places not open, two pubs that served lunch between 12 and 2. We arrived at the first at 12 only to be told that as two tables of people had already arrived, nothing would be available until 1pm. We tried the second pub, they hadn’t finished their lunch prep yet, and weren’t taking orders until the prep was finished. Next we tried the bakery, but they didn’t have tables. We wandered on.
Next stop, a fish and chip shop with a couple of outside tables. That’d have to do. They didn’t do coffee. We sat outside and ate our mediocre fish and chips, and yes it was windy, and a little drizzly, but we were under a roof, and managed to drag the table to a spot with some wind protection, so that was ok. Next we went in search of coffee. I think we managed to find the only place in Kalbarri serving coffee on a Thursday lunch time. Thank goodness it was before 2pm, as they closed at 2. Paul also ordered a cake. The coffee arrived, but the cake had been forgotten. They were apologetic though when reminded, which was the first indication since arriving in the town that someone at least had a general idea of ’customer service’. The coffee was really good.
Back to the van park at 2pm to join the queue of arrivals. We both went to reception to book in, however there was one person already there. ”only one person in the office at a time”, we were told. ”as per covid mandates, and the sign on the door”. I went back to the van, while Paul waited his turn to humbly enter reception on his lonesome.
From then on things magically transformed. The gentleman on the quad bike escorted us to our site, and skillfully directed the back in before presenting us with an envelope with the key for the ensuite, and the park rules inside. The park only has grassed, ensuite sites. The grass is immaculate (no ground sheets allowed), and the ensuite was spotlessly clean and completely dry. Ah! now I understand the later than usual check in time for caravanners – they use the time to bring all the sites up to their high standard. All is forgiven.
We set up, had a cuppa, then the noise of the waves crashing to shore close by beckoned. It looked like quite a distance to the water, but it was only about a three minute walk, and what we saw when we arrived took our breath away. I’ll let the photos do the talking!
We were gobsmacked. Raw nature at it’s absolute best, and soooo close to where we’ll be spending the next four nights. I’m happy.
It’s now 7.50am on the morning of our second day. I’ve been typing this in bed, as I listen to the waves crashing onto the rugged, rocky coastline only a few hundred metres away. There’s no wind today and the sky is blue. I’m thinking – I‘m going to like Kalbarri!
We had planned to leave early this morning with Cervantes as our first stop. However, by 3pm yesterday we were all packed up and were eager to get going. We set off and took an hour and half off todays trip by staying at a free overnight stopping place on the way. Without power it was freezing, but we were still pleased to have shortened today’s travel time.
Setting off before 8am this morning and with only 302 kms to travel today meant we arrived before lunch. We usually travel long days so when we arrive at each day’s destination, there’s usually only daylight hours left for a quick leg stretch, dinner, and a game, before we hit the sack for the night. It was a nice change to have a relax for a bit before making a sandwich for lunch, and then setting off to explore the surrounding area on foot.
Cervantes is a very small Cray-fishing town. Nearby are the famous Pinnacles – a sort of desert with fossilised tree trunks. (don’t quote me on that rough description, I have been there many years ago, but I’m a bit vague as to their origin).
Today’s walk took us down the beach with the big Cray-fisherman’s houses on one side and their cray-fishing boats moored just off shore on the other side.
And just up the beach from the big houses is the surprising Lobster Shack. We were so tempted – but I had roast chicken in the caravan all cooked ready for our dinner.
The place is huge, with just as many tables inside as there are out. Some of the meals looked really enticing, as did their iced coffees….. I resisted (that’s a first). I imagine a lot of tour buses bring their Pinnacle tour patrons here for lunch. I think they’d be impressed.
We’ve been promising ourself shorter, slower days in the caravan for ever. It’s taken us to our last trip to actually do it. It’s rather nice – I wonder why it took us so long!
Two days ago we dropped our dog, Mr Tilly, off at our daughters in Perth where he’ll stay for the next two months. Being retired, Tills is usually with us almost 24/7. He sits beside us on the sofa at night, and he sleeps between us on our bed. When one of us is out of the house he sits on the bed where he can watch out for the return of the car and with it, the absent member of his pack. He’s very loyal, and great company, but he does get anxious when his pack isn’t all together. It broke our heart to leave him, but I believe he’s settling in now. My daughter has two small older dogs, so they’ll be good company for him, and all three dogs are welcome on the sofa in the evening, and sleep on the main bed at night.
We’ve loved our caravanning life, but Mr Tilly has struggled with it. He came into our home when he was only seven weeks old and has been caravanning with us ever since. We did all our homework before we got him and knew our road trips wouldn’t be as free as they’d always been. We realised National Parks would no longer be an option, but there were still plenty of other options available. The one thing we didn’t factor in was that perhaps he wouldn’t love it. He’s now almost five years old though, and it’s clear he’s not faking it – caravanning turns him into one very anxious little dog, so much so that he’s often physically ill when we’re away. It’s become clear he’s not going to get used to these travelling escapades no matter how much time we give him, and his stress effects our enjoyment. We haven’t been enjoying our caravanning trips as much as we ought to be.
Of course, leaving him with our daughter is always an option, however, we prefer longer trips of two plus months than short 2 – 3 week breaks away, and we don’t think it’s fair to either our daughter, or to Mr Tilly to leave him for months at a time. So we’ve made the decision to make this our last caravan trip, our last hurrah!
There are a few more reasons for our decision though. There’s the cost of the fuel, the increasing cost of caravan park fees, and last but not least, the crowds now on the road. With so many people now on the roads there is no room for spontaneity any more. Without advance bookings it’s almost impossible to get a spot anywhere without bookings made months in advance. In 2014 when we took to the road full time the only times you had to book long advance was during school holidays. Out of school holidays we’d turn up at caravan parks and were usually offered a choice of sites. It’s just not like it used to be.
On top of that, our move into our retirement lifestyle village has totally changed our lives. Our lives at home are so busy now, bowls, golf, bridge, walks, dinners – so much so that long trips away are no longer as tempting. So, whilst we’re laying the blame at Mr Tilly’s feet, there’s really much more to it than that. The truth is we don’t enjoy being away from our home for long periods of time any more. There’s just to much going on all the time on the home front.
We’ve left Mr Tilly behind this time and are going to make the most of this, our last hurrah. On the itinerary for this trip is hiking in Kalbarri national park, a walk on the Kalbarri skywalk, and dinner at the famous Finlay’s Fish restaurant. Then we’re heading on to Coral Bay for four nights. Coral Bay has always been a favourite place of ours, but with dogs not allowed on the main beach there, we’ve been by-passing it for the past five years. It’s fitting that it should be included in our last hurrah.
Between Coral Bay and Broome we’ll include a few days at Pt Samson, and will stay a few nights at Eighty Mile Beach, the most strategic stopping point on the home stretch into Broome. The owner at Eighty Mile Beach apparently tried to seperate two vicious dogs several years ago and was mauled badly in the process. Dogs have been banned there ever since. Then we have four lovely weeks in Broome, and our son and daughter-in-law are coming down from Darwin to meet us there. We’re looking forward to being able to do justice to sharing time with them including dining out at the local eateries and pubs. Hopefully this last hurrah will get us that illusive photo we’ve been trying to capture of a bat as it flies across the face of the full moon. Goodness knows there’s lots of opportunities for the photo, but snapping it at just the right moment is the trick yet to be mastered.
Come early September we’ll return home with a couple of nights at Karijini National Park on the way. Then we’ll be advertising our little van and a new era of shorter overseas holidays will begin. In the meantime, watch this space. I’m sure I’m going to have some lovely photos to share with you, hopefully even that one that has so far alluded us of a bat silhouetted against a full moon.
Both Paul and I have our birthdays in May. On my birthday we received a birthday phone call from our grandson and his partner, Shirley asking us to open the email they had just sent to us so as they could explain it’s meaning to us. Inside, they’d put together a book of their favourite places to eat in Perth. It must have taken them hours, each place listed, came with photos and comments of which dish they’d recommend. They even included a map showing the location of each of the eateries. They asked us to take a look through, and choose a place for them to take us to when next we were next up in Perth.
We opted to try something we’d never tried before – Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai Soup Dumplings). However, we also mentioned we’d be interested to try some of the unusual ingredients sometimes available at the more authentic type of Asian dishes.
We made a date for Wednesday 22nd June, and headed up to Perth arriving mid morning. Tim and Shirley live close to China Town near the Northbridge eating strip, and around a half hour drive from our daughter’s place where would be staying for the night, so we expected we’d be meeting them somewhere near where would be going for lunch. The first of the most pleasant surprises came when they insisted on picking us up. We headed to Juicy Bao Bao for a lunch of Shanghai Soup Dumplings. Thank goodness we had them to order for us – we were given an Ipad on which to place our order, so you had to know what the food was. We went up to select our dipping sauces. Two lots of different boiled soup dumplings arrived, one lot of fried dumplings, and big bowl of brisket soup complete with Chinese greens and long noodles. Surprise number two, some of the food was delivered by a robot – we’d never experienced that before.
The food was fabulous. There’s a bit of a knack to eating the soup dumplings. They have a little patty of meat inside plus a small amount of soup. The trick is to pick up a dumpling with your chopsticks without piercing the skin and place it on your Chinese soup spoon. Then you lift it towards your mouth and gently pierce the dumpling to drink out the soup before eating the dumpling. I can’t say I mastered it that well, but I enjoyed trying. And the flavours – wow! It was all so delicious, I only wish I’d photographed the big bowl of brisket soup too.
Surprise number three – we were taken back to their place to play games for the afternoon, before heading out again for dinner. That was totally unexpected, but when Shirley had told me to get my ’stomach ready’, she really meant it. In the afternoon they showed us how to play Mah-Jong, a game I’ve been curious about for a while. I’m sure I’ll play that again. Then Grandson number two, who lives next door, came over to say hi, so we all chatted for a while. What a pleasurable afternoon. Then it was time to head out for dinner again.
A place that apparently does a very good Chinese hot pot was chosen. The first choice of place was closed, so we headed to Shirley and Tim’s second choice, which I think was Kung Fu Kitchen, from the list. Again, I was pleased they were with us, I wouldn’t have had a clue on how or what to order. Four hot pots were chosen, a very hot one, a mushroom one, a tomato one, and a sour, spicy one. We selected the fillings between us including some of the unusual things i’ve never eaten before, scallops, fish balls, lamb, puffy tofu, tongue, braised intestines, and greens.
My favourite was the mushroom soup, and we all loved the tongue. The intestines were good too, everything was good, but I wasn’t game to try the really hot soup. We washed it all down with Feral Hog Hop beer. If you’ve never tried a Chinese hotpot, the bowls of soup are placed over an element on the table. When it comes to a simmer you place the items of selected food into the soups to gently cook, or heat through. It’s very social, and a first for us. It won’t be the last, we loved it.
We still weren’t done. Next on the gourmet trail was coffee and cake at Cafe Guilty Pleasure. With a gorgeous old English style decor, sideboards and kitchenettes, full of dainty china cups and saucers, and walls hung with pretty tapestries, the place was lovely. Paul chose a strawberry torte, I chose a Matcha (green tea) torte, Shirley had a sweet potato torte, and I can’t remember the one Tim selected. They were all light, and delicious. We were full to the brim when they drove us back to where we staying for the night. I was still full the next morning.
I have to say, it’s probably the best and most surprising birthday gift I’ve ever had. The effort they put into presenting the choices for us to select from, then the chauffeur service, three eateries in one day, and mah-jong in the afternoon. That’s a day for the memory book, what a pleasure!
It’s been a while since I documented any changes to our home, and there have been a few. I love to be able to look back at photos to see how my garden and house evolve over time, and this blog seems to be the best place in which to record those changes. I love the way a blog serves as a bit of diary for such things….. So, if you’re interested in this aspect of my blog please make yourself a cuppa and get comfy while I show you around. If, however, you prefer to follow along only with my travel posts, then please feel free to by-pass this post…..