Days two and three on Great Ocean Road

Yesterday was mainly a driving day. We drove from Princetown to Torquay where the Great Ocean Road begins. Everyone has told us the drive is better if you start at the Torquay end, as then your car is on the ocean side for the best views. They’re right. We’re actually moving around this section of the country in the wrong direction for the best car window views of the rugged, wind battered coastline. So, rather than miss out, we’ve driven it in both directions.

It’s awesome. Coming from the Torquay end the first section is mainly views of rugged coastline. Then the road moves away from the coast and rises steeply up into the Ottway national park before again returning down to the coastline for the final section. It’s in the final section where the Twelve Apostles etc are. So we’ve completed the road trip in a bit of a higglety, piggelty fashion, which has meant we’ve driven the road at least twice. By the time we leave here on Tuesday we will have travelled some of the roads five or six times.

Today was the best of the days so far. We went up into the Ottway National park and completed a couple of short walk tracks. Both were approximately an hour long, and easy walks to do, but breathtakingly hard to take as far as spectacular goes. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

Firstly a windy road up through the clouds to get there.
Firstly a windy road up through the clouds to get there.
Some wood carved sculptures on the way.
Some wood carved sculptures on the way.
A pretty blue headed wren.
A pretty blue headed wren.
The forest track.
The forest track.
And on to Triplet Falls.
And on to Triplet Falls.

We’re staying a fourth night at Princetown as we’ve booked onto the Zip Fly trip through some of the forest in Ottway tomorrow. Two hours of continual flying fox flights through the trees – wish me luck.

Great Ocean Road

What a wonderful day. It started with a quick walk at our free camp where we sighted and watched a mother koala and her baby (or adolescent, as it was quite well grown). The youngster entertained us by jumping between branches and harassing it’s mother. Mum didn’t look impressed and raised her sleepy head to give us a ‘bugger off’ look, and the same to the youngster, who scampered up the tree to sulk in a higher fork in the the tree. They were so gorgeous.

We then moved onto a camp ground at Princetown Reserve. It’s close to mid way along the Great Ocean Road, so from here we should be able to see most of the sights. At $25 for a powered site, it’s good value for this neck of the woods, and there’s plenty of room and space around us. We’ve booked for three nights.

After a quick lunch we set off in the direction of Port Campbell taking in the famous coastal sights. Wow!!!

Firstly, the Twelve Apostles (now only eight due to the power of the ocean). We’ve seen thousands of pictures of these awesome natural wonders, and our photos just like all of the others, are nothing in comparison to the real life experience of actually seeing them. The sound of the ocean, the wind, the size – photos can’t come close to doing justice to the real life experience of actually seeing them.

Some of the twelve apostles.
Some of the twelve apostles.
And two more on the other side of the viewing platform
And two more on the other side of the viewing platform

Then onto Loch Ard Gorge. The Loch Ard was one of many ships wrecked off this coast, leaving only two survivors and drowning more than 50. The two survivors came to shore through this narrow gorge.

Loch Ard Gorge
Loch Ard Gorge

Next was London Bridge. London Bridge used to span all the way across. Then in 1992 the centre of the structure collapsed and fell into the ocean. At the time four people were out on the bridge, but miraculously two ended up on the land side of the gap, and the other two were left stranded on the ocean side. They were eventually winched to safety by a helicopter.

London Bridge
London Bridge

There were so many look outs each showing the most amazing coastal scenery.

The Arch
The Arch

Perhaps my favourite.

The Grotto
The Grotto

This spectacular coastline is shaped by waves that can reach as high as 30 metres during a storm with nothing between these headlands and the Antartica. The land reduces by approximately 2 cms a year and has been doing so for many thousands of years, leaving behind these monuments in the ocean. The limestone structures eventually get eroded away at the sea line causing them to topple into the ocean. I guess as some fall to the sea, more must get created, but I don’t know which, if any, have only appeared in my life time.

This one really showed some amazing erosion lines
This one really showed some amazing erosion lines

For any overseas visitors to this site, one thing that’s worthy of comment. We stopped at all of these look outs, parked in designated car parks, and walked down safe and well maintained paths and boardwalks (some of which were real engineering feats), and none of it cost a cent. No parking costs, no entry costs – nothing. All completely free, except for an ice cream we bought at the Twelve Apostles.

This amazing day still didn’t end there. We came back to our camp ground which overlooks a beautiful landscape, home to a huge mob of kangaroos. As I was preparing tea two of the males had a full on boxing match. It went on for ages before one of them finally resorted to putting the boot in. He obviously won, because the fight then ended and they both went off then to lick their wounds. I’ve seen Roo fights on TV before, but never for real. It was a humourous note on which to end an amazing day.

Free camping, and Koalas

Our stay in Robe ended up only being a one nighter. We were awoken around 2 this morning by the loudest clap of thunder and the most electric sounding bolt of lightening I’ve ever heard. Both struck at once, so I guess that means the storm was exactly overhead. For the next couple of hours the rain, thunder, lightening and wind was almost constant, and I don’t know how the awning managed to remain attached. The caravan felt like a small boat at sea in a storm, and I lay awake wondering if we were going to be capsized.

Morning came, and everything had remained in tact, apart from some towels which had blown to the ground and were sodden. It looked like the rain was in for the day, in which case we would have either been confined to the inside of the caravan or wandering the retail centre of town. We decided instead to move on a day earlier than planned. Robe is definitely on the agenda though for a return trip.

It was still wet and dismal as we headed through Mount Gambier so we didn’t stop to look at the Blue Lake there. It’s apparently amazing, so another place to see on our next trip to the area.

We’re now free camping in a lovely wooded area near Fitzroy River (Victoria), 25 kms north east of Portland. We pulled in and the rain stopped. After three months of caravan parks, it’s sheer bliss. We can hear the birds, the nearest campers to us are at least 20 metres away, and the nearest to them would be at least couple of hundred metres further away. Theres not a screaming child or scooter in sight. We’re happy. Mental note to myself: We must take advantage of more free camp spots, they’re good for the budget, but even better for the soul.

Free camping - the road less travelled.
Free camping – the road less travelled.

We made ourselves a coffee and then went for a walk. The smell of gums here is amazing. A few hundred metres up the track, a fellow camper told us there are Koalas around, so back we came for our camera. He was right. We found four, each one looking sleepily down in on us as we took some lovely snaps. Apparently it’s mating season, so come night time we’ll likely be kept awake by their mating antics.

What a cutie.
What a cutie.
Sleepyhead.
Sleepyhead.

Being from Western Australia where there aren’t any Koalas in the wild, it’s exciting to finally come across some. We’ve seen road signs warning of their presence, which has had me craning my neck out the car window to try and catch a glimse of one. Apart from one that caused a traffic hold up as it crossed the road a few car lengths in front of us, these are the first we’ve spotted, so we’re thrilled. If they keep us awake at night I don’t think we’ll mind in the least.

Robe, SA. A must on any Aussie bucket list.

We left Adelaide this morning and are now on our way to Melbourne to catch the Ferry to Tassie. We’ve brought our sailing date forward to 20 January, so we have 13 days to enjoy the splendours of the Great Ocean Road.

It’ll be a few days before we reach the Great Ocean Road, so we stopped in Robe, South Australia for our first couple of nights. I had barely heard of Robe, and Paul hadn’t heard of it all. We won’t forget it.

The coastline is spectacular. The waves have a gentle roll, just enough to push a boogie board to shore – damn we gave our boards away. The beach is beautifully level for walking on and hard enough that even two wheel drive vehicles can drive along the shore in search of an idealic spot to spend the day. And a lot of people do just that. We went for a wander down the beach this afternoon after a refreshing swim, and there was at least a hundred cars parked on the sand.

P1030563

There’s two downsides to Robe though – the first is we only have time for a two night stay this times, but we will be back for sure.

The second is the time of year we’re here. We managed to squeeze into the Discovery caravan park right across from the beach. Like all beach side places during school holidays, it’s jam packed with families. All having a great time, which is lovely to see, but for Grey Nomads who support these caravan parks all year, it’s tough to suddenly start paying top dollar and then to have our happy hour accompanied by at least a dozen kids racing up and down on scooters, playing frisbee or cricket, and whatever else kids like to to. Not to mention the parent who pushes their child that little bit too far past bedtime with the inevitable tantrum and/or screaming fit. There’s always at least one. Joy!!!!

Now there’s an idea for booming business for someone. An over 45s caravan park – no kids allowed. No jumping pillows, no play grounds, no games rooms – just clean facilities, perhaps well kept gardens, and a reasonable all year round price that doesn’t go through the roof during school holidays. The insurance would be less, all the ground would be usable and I should imagine most (granted – not all) grey nomads require less cleaning up after. Perhaps, some budding entrepreneur will see a market for such a place. I’m sure it’d be well used, even more so if well behaved pets were also allowed. I’m sure the pets would be considerably less trouble than ankle biters of the human kind.

With or without an over 45s caravan park though, Robe is a place that’s worthy of being on anyone’s ‘bucket list’. Coming back here again is certainly on ours.

Christmas in Adelaide

Being a bit of a Christmas freak every common room in our house has traditionally been decked out with trees, bells, tinsel or some other form of chintzy Christmas ornamentation. Packing up our belongings for the big road trip meant most of the Christmas collection had to go along with everything else. We did manage to find room in our van though for most of my collection of father christmas ornaments that used to adorn our tree, and a treasured table carousel given to me by the grand sons for Christmas one year. A few of my father christmas tree ornaments were too good to risk bringing, so they are safely wrapped up and are stored amongst our two small plastic crates which house the few items we decided to keep.

Our house decorated in Christmas's past.
Our house decorated in Christmas’s past.
Outdoors.
Outdoors.
Even the loo wasn't forgotten.
Even the loo wasn’t forgotten.

This year only our annex is decorated simply with two strings of Father Christmas tree ornaments suspended across the ceiling, a Christmas table cloth, and my Christmas carousel ornament.

It was a pleasure to have Chris, Clare, Luka and Em join us for our first Christmas in our home on wheels away from Perth.

It was a ‘no fuss’ day. Dinner was oysters, a festive roast and an ice-cream bomb. All simple with most of it prepared the day before. We sat around and chatted for most of the afternoon over a drink or two before having an early evening dinner. Of course there were the obligatory Christmas cracker hats and jokes (yes, all heard before, but cause for a chuckle all the same).

After dinner Emma and Luka were tiring from their long day, so we turned TV on in our bedroom and they seemed to enjoy the novelty of watching a well repeated Christmas movie lying on our bed in the van. Chris, Clare and ourselves played a board game. It was a game that involved spacial awareness, and spacial awareness is certainly not one of my stronger attributes. However, I won two out of the three games we played, so either it was beginners luck on my part, or the others really, really suck at spacial awareness. I suspect it was the former!

Now looking forward to New Years Eve. We’re only a couple of kilometres from Brighton Pier, where fireworks are let off. We should get a good view of them from the beach in front of the van park.

Shortly after that we’re going to move on towards Tasmania. A little earlier than planned, but we will have been in Adelaide for about a month by then, and that’s the beauty of this life – as soon as you feel it’s time for a change of scenery, it’s up wheels and off.

Maggie Beer’s – Barossa

What would a visit to Adelaide be without a visit to the Barossa, and more especially – Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop.

We had a short drive up into the Barossa yesterday. Not many cellar doors seemed to be open, but we didn’t call in to the tourist information for details of cellar door openings and good wineries to visit. That’s saved for the next visit, and there will definitely be another visit.

Grape vines in the Barossa
Grape vines in the Barossa

Uppermost in our minds yesterday was the long awaited visit to Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop. For overseas visitors to this site, Maggie Beer is somewhat of an Australian cooking icon. She has her own farm in the Barossa and started out making a name for herself cooking and selling Pheasant products, and in particular I think her starting point on the way to fame and fortune was her signature Pheasant Pate’.

Her warm and larger than life personality has endeared her to the Australian public, and she has been the cooking host of many a TV cooking show. Her cooking style and dishes she presents I’m sure are very contributory to the expansion of many an Australian waistline, not least of which is mine. I doubt there would be a self professed ‘home cook’ in Australia who doesn’t hold at least one Maggie Beer cook book amongst their collection.

Maggie is to Australia what Nigella is to England, only instead of Nigella’s Sensuality, Maggie has an all ‘good neighbour’ image, and conjures up images of baskets of warm home made scones being delivered to any new arrival in the neighbourhood. Her food style is good and honest without pretentiousness, but inspiring for would be home cooks to try out new ingredients and new styles of cooking.

A visit to her farm shop didn’t disappoint. Paul had a game terrine with a side salad for his lunch. I had a delicious mushroom pate’, served with a beautiful warmed, rustic bread roll, a small dish of olive oil topped soft cheese, and a small bowl of freekah salad.

What’s freekah salad, I had to ask, apart from being delicious that is. Apparently freekah is roasted young grains of green wheat. To make it into a salad, mint, parsley, preserved lemons, Maggie’s famous verjuice, and her almost equally famous quince paste are added, along with some other every day ingredients. Needless to say, along with the recipe I also came home with a bag of goodies ready to make it for myself.

Her farm shop is well laid out with jars and bottles of produce and ample spoons for sampling. The sampling did it’s trick and I couldn’t resist adding a jar of salted caramel, some fig and fennel paste, a jar of mustard dried apricots, and some caramelised onions to my bag of Freekah salad ingredients. I’m looking forward to trying some of the caramelised onions and the mustard dried apricots tonight with some left over cold nut roast, and a freekah salad to go with it. Mmmmm!! I’ll live with hungry anticipation all day I’m sure.

A long time between beaches

We’re now camped alongside the beach at Brighton Caravan Park in Adelaide. It’s very, very pleasant.

It’s been a long time since we were last able to walk along a beach and swim in the sea, not since Broome, in June. We had a very short stay near the coast at Nelson Bay, and a couple of day trips to the coast at both Yamba and Coffs Harbour. It was winter though, and therefore didn’t really count. I don’t think I’ve been away from the coastline for this long before in my whole life, and I don’t think I’m likely to be away from it again for this long a second time. I really missed it!

We’ve now been in Adelaide a week. The heavy duty clutch has been fitted to the car. A made to measure mattress has been ordered for the van. A replacement awning has been organised after our current one was damaged in a hail storm at Pinnaroo. Our Christmas shopping is done, and we’ve both treated ourselves to a bit a of wardrobe update for the coming summer. So that’s all the business taken care of.

Now we can get down to the business we signed up to do when we took on the ‘Grey Nomad’ lifestyle – walking on the beach, swimming, more walking on the beach, a bit of sight seeing, more walking on the beach, reading books, playing cards, meeting people, and of cause, more walking on the beach….

We went into the Botanic Gardens yesterday, a lovely place to walk. Then we met up with Chris (Paul’s 2nd cousin), Clare, Luka and Emma for a light dinner at the surf club next door to the caravan park. Chris and Clare had just completed a ‘tough mudder’, fund raiser (I think that’s what it was called). They both looked normal before the event, and still normal after it. However, I’m sure their looks must be deceiving as from what they told us is involved in the event, you’d have to have rocks in your head to even contemplate it – running through mud, and up steep, slippery, mud and water soaked high walls, diving into and swimming under submerged beams in an ice filled water pond, and scrabbling under live, electric currents where getting shocked was inevitable….. I think it was a couple of hours of what sounds like nightmarish hell to me.

Anyway, they both completed it and didn’t look any worse for it afterwards, and I believe it was all for a very good cause. Kudos to them both and to everyone else who took part in the event. I would never have been capable of completing any such thing at any stage of my life to date, and if there’s lives to follow this one, I’m sure it won’t be on my list of, ‘must do’ things then either, LOL!!

We’ll start having a good look around Adelaide, and this part of South Australia soon, hopefully getting to one of the nearby wine regions sometime later this week. Then, before we know it, Christmas will be here.

We’ll be spending our first Christmas on the road with Chris, Clare, Luka and Emma. They’re coming here for the afternoon, and we’re hoping the weather will be obliging for swimming and perhaps a game of bouchee on the beach before dinner. Of course, if the weather isn’t up to it, we can always suggest a card game of infamous, ‘spoons’. I’ll make sure my finger nails are short….

Last day working for Viterra

LOL!! check out the

We managed another week or so after my last post, and are finishing up today. Paul’s currently in the middle of his last 11 hour shift, I have a five hour shift this afternoon.

It has been an experience, some good, and some not so good. It’s been pleasant to have seen our bank account change direction for a short time. Compared to the rates of pay we’ve been used to in WA, the pay isn’t great by any means, but we both knew we’d left the good money behind when we left Perth. Anyway, this hasn’t been only about the money, and the small amount we’ve earned, together with being occupied and therefore not able to spend anything, has been better than a ‘poke an eye with a pointed stick,’ that’s for sure.

We have met some lovely people here, and we’ve had a snap shot look at some aspects of crop farming, albeit from the distance of wheat silos. The girls I’ve been predominantly working with in the classy hut are from the town. They’ve all finished school and are going to uni in Adelaide next year, and are working to get the money for that. They’re really nice girls, and clearly demonstrate a town that looks out for it’s people. To all the girls and particularly Ellen, whom I’ve probably worked the most with, it’s been a pleasure!

When asking them if they have any interest in settling down in Pinnaroo, not one of them had any obvious distaste at the thought. They’re all wisely open to going where the future takes them, but they have all enjoyed and appreciate the support they’ve had from the town as they’ve grown up. None of them seem to be ‘busting to leave’, that I can see. That says a lot for Pinnaroo – so Pinnaroo, you can be proud, your children do you justice.

The farmers bringing in their crops have all been friendly and pleasant. Our bosses, Troy and Karen, have also both been really nice. They’re both kind hearted and try their hardest to ensure the work is enough to provide reasonable wages, whilst at the same time trying to get sufficient people to cover shifts, without it being too many people with not enough to do. Unfortunately, the nature of the job is that the latter is hard to avoid. Boredom isn’t usually a feeling I’ll subscribe too, as I can usually find something worthwhile to do. However, this time it’s beaten me, and dare I say it – yes, I’ve been bored.

Would I do it again. Probably not. But for people who want to earn a bit of money on their travels, it’s an easy way to do it. At times the work out on site is hard, but most often I believe it’s not. The weigh bridge and classy hut work is not hard at all. If there were to be three times as many trucks, the work would be enjoyable, and some sites perhaps have that. So, for anyone considering it for short term work, I’d say – give it go. You’ll earn a bit of money, you won’t spend much while you’re working, and driving past wheat silos will never be the same again.

Where to next for us. We considered going up to the Riverlands before heading into Adelaide. But we’re both hanging out for sand and surf. So, we’re heading into Adelaide tomorrow, and can’t wait to get into bathers and feel the sand between our toes. By tomorrow afternoon we’ll have washed most of Pinnaroo’s dust off in the Southern ocean. What doesn’t wash off there will blow away with the sea breeze as we walk off one or two too many delicious blueberry scrolls from the Pinnaroo bakery.

Not what I signed up for!

To quote Paul, ‘this isn’t what I signed up for’.

In buying this caravan and becoming a Gray Nomad, our idea was to travel where the wind and whims took us, and we decided we’d do some work on the way around. We decided if we found ourselves in a job we weren’t happy with, ‘we were to be out of there’.

Nine months down the track – We’re in a job that is providing a moderate level of satisfaction for Paul. For me – not so.

Theoretically, the pay should work ok as the week-end pay should bump the rate up. However, last week-end we had a thunder storm that reduced work and resulted in cancelled shifts, and this week-end due to heavy rain Paul’s Saturday shift was reduced to 4 hours, and again all Sunday shifts were cancelled. I didn’t work at all on Saturday, and my shift today was cancelled. Paul has been working since 11am and probably won’t return until 8 or so tonight. He’s helping out on the bunkers at a different sight that is having some staffing difficulties.

For Pinnarro, rain has stopped the harvest, and it won’t start up again until the sun and wind dries it again. Too much rain and it could be ruined altogether. I suspect currently, it’s not looking good.

Yesterday was okay. We knew early enough so we could plan a day out. We went to the nearest bigger town of Loxton, which is around 130 kms away. Being a Sunday, not much was open, but we did find a winery to go to for lunch, and also a lovely historical home to visit.

Today Paul’s at work, I’m at home in the caravan. Pinnaroo has an IGA, a butchers, a news agency and a bakery, but we don’t need any supplies. There are no other shops, no towns nearby, no national parks or beaches near by, in fact there’s absolutely nothing near by except crops of wheat and barley within a 130 km radius of Pinnaroo.

I’ve read, and perused the internet until I’ve just about gone doolally, and am reminded that ‘I didn’t sign up for this’.

Looking at our current Schedule, we have a caravan park booked in Adelaide from 20th December to end of January. Then we have caravan parks booked  around the Great Ocean Road as we make our way to Melbourne to pick up the ferry to Tasmania, which is booked for the 9 March. Then we have flights booked towards mid April for Sydney and the UK, returning early in June. Including our time here at work, that means we have committed more than 8 months of our time with no room for the wind or whims to take us anywhere. Again, not what I signed up for. Grrrr!!!! We manage to do this too often, book our lives away, and get trapped by plans of our own making.

If I sound like I’m having a whinge, that’s because I am. Just a bit ‘over it’ today.

We’re both on afternoon shifts at Pinnaroo tomorrow. Hopefully, the trucks will be rolling in and it’ll be a better day. If not – well, I’ll think about that tomorrow……