This will most likely be my last blog post for a few weeks. We’re unlikely to have any cover for phone or for the net after we leave Derby tomorrow night, so won’t be able to make, or receive phone calls or emails from anyone. If anything occurs that’s urgent, we’re heading to Derby tomorrow to stay overnight, then heading in an Easterly direction across the Gibb River. I’m sure the police will locate us via the grapevine if the need arises, but I’m sure that’s not going to be necessary…
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WA – The Kimberleys
Broome’s own Jurassic park
We took a sunset flight on a Broome’s hovercraft, Big Bird yesterday evening, curtesy of Alice and Paul (this years birthday present). And yes, it is ‘a flight’, and not, ‘a ride’. The hovercraft hovers approximately 3 feet above the ground, so it is technically flying, and the person directing it is termed a hovercraft pilot.
I must admit, although I’d heard of dinosaur prints in Broome, I hadn’t really taken much notice. I think I had a certain of amount of scepticism too – thinking it was perhaps a lot of hype. After all, wouldn’t footprints, no matter how big and deep, disappear over the passage of time? Seemingly not, and we’ve now seen the proof, proof which was absolutely clear.
We were the first to be picked up from our accommodation at approximately 2.45PM. Our driver quickly whizzed around Broome picking up the rest of yesterdays tour, and after the usual safely information, we boarded the craft. Our pilot, Miles, visually, and quietly, assessed us (for weight) as we boarded, and directed us to where we needed sit. Apparently, weight distribution is important. Then we were on our way.
Big Bird is housed at the top of a ramp overlooking Roebuck Bay. I’m not sure if it’s possible for them to be flown in reverse, I think Miles said not. Anyway, he did advise it slides of it’s own accord down the ramp and onto the Roebuck Bay mudflats. It felt like we were travelling very slowly, so we were all surprised to hear we had been flying along at around 40 kms per hour. We were lucky enough to be seated on the left side of the craft, and yesterday, most of greenback turtles resting on the mud flats where on our side.
We came to rest on damp but firm, tidal mud flats across the bay. Miles then took us to where nine footprints of an adult dinosaur are, plus several smaller prints that have been identified as a juvenile of the same species. Miles did say what type of dinosaur it’s been identified as, but the name escapes me now. It has been identified as a herbivore though, that I remember that much. Apparently these foot prints were made approximately 120 million years ago, how awesome is that.
To demonstrate the regularity of the prints, Miles picked nine of us to each stand in one of the adult footprints. They were definitely a regular distance apart, and one could almost visualise the huge, gentle giant meandering through the clay with her feet sinking several feet with each and every step. Clearly, from the small footprints, the juvenile was wondering along in the care of it’s parent, presumably it’s mother.
I don’t begin to profess an understanding of how the footprints came to be preserved, but from the explanation given, I have a vague idea. It involves solidification of the mud, and the rising up of Gondwana…..Ha, that much I got! Those nine prints are something that have to be seen. Photographs couldn’t show the regularity that demonstrates clearly what they are.
Next, Miles showed us two more footprints, these ones on a higher rock shelf. In these ones it shows the compression of the foot prints. Paul’s attempted to photograph these. Knowing what it is, we can clearly see the absence of the layers caused by the compression, but I’m not sure it’ll be evident in the photo to anyone who wasn’t there to see it in person. Anyway, see what you make of it….
Apparently, the Kimberley region, and particularly around Broome, there’s an unparalleled number of dinosaur tracks, Australia’s own Jurassic park. 21 species of footprints have been confirmed, with one of them being the only confirmed evidence of the Stegosaur. Additionally, the largest footprint ever recorded has been found here. By contrast though, no skeletal remains have been found here. Apparently, the climate here means the bones would have been broken down but the elements and literally would have turned to dust.
After the science lesson, we were presented with a glass of bubbly, and a table was set up on the mud flats with a fantastic variety of canapés as the sun set. We hardly needed dinner when we arrived back at our caravan park.
If you have an interest in pre-historic life, then this tour is a must. And if you don’t have much of an interest in pre-historic life, I’m sure this tour would tweak your interest. It certainly did for us. Dinosaur stories will never be the same again – it’s given them a reality that goes way beyond the Jurassic Park movie.
Entrance Point – Broome
Our last stop before reaching Broome was at Stanley, a roadside rest area 211 kms south of Broome. As far as rest areas go, it’s up there with the best in WA – very roomy, clean loos, and it even has some concrete slabs.
We’ve now been in Broome for four nights, and we’re loving it. We’ve been enjoying lots of walks, swims and drives along Cable Beach. We’ve given the van a rough clean to get the worst of the red dirt off, and we’ve shopped and restocked.
Yesterday morning we enjoyed a long walk along Cable beach in the morning, followed by a half hour on our boogie boards. Nice gentle waves with little danger to young children and grannies – perfect for me. After lunch we made a list of the Broome beaches to peruse during the afternoon. We’ve never spent long enough in Broome before to have time to explore much beyond Cable Beach. We expected to tick all the beaches off in one afternoon, and didn’t expect any would tweak our interest enough to warrant a second visit as an occasional alternative to the stunning Cable Beach.
How wrong we were. We didn’t get past the first beach on our list. Entrance Point, is near the Port and Broome fishing club, a good place to throw in a line (i’m told preferably on an outgoing tide – unusual). The beach is firm packed red sand at low tide, and with several boat ramps, a perfect place to launch a boat. Such an interesting place to walk, full of rock formations that arguably rival, and in my opinion, surpass the famous rock window at Kalbarri. We spent the entire afternoon at the one beach, so the other beaches on our list will have to wait for another day.
Entrance Point is a popular place for weddings and wedding photographs. Here’s why:
It was while Paul was photographing this that a couple of dogs out for a walk approached me with their owner. As always, I was eager to say hello to any little hair balls and give them a pat. The owner was most apologetic when they barely gave me a cursory ‘how do you do’ before scampering off. Apparently nothing gets in their way of them exploring all the little nocks and crannies this beach has to offer. It was easy to see why, and I can’t wait to bring our own little fur ball back there next year.
Just like an interesting garden with windows framing points of interest, walls, windows and doorways leading visitors to yet another vista – Entrance Point has it all. No wonder it’s famous for wedding photography, so many natural frames. Im sure a landscape gardener couldn’t have planned it better. As if Cable Beach isn’t enough, Entrance Point, a total contrast, full of interest, different – and just as perfect. A real pleasure! We’ll be back.
Preparing for The Gibb River
Our plans for this winter’s sojourn are to leave Busselton early in May, and return early in October. This year we’re planning to do full justice to just the North of Western Australia, including the Gibb River Road.
The Gibb River was originally constructed in the 1960s to transport stock from the surrounding cattle stations. Now it’s predominantly used by tourists. 660 km of what’s noted to be spectacular scenery – it’s been my number 1 ‘Bucket list’ destination for longer than I can remember.
The road conditions vary from bitumen to natural rocky earth, and is, in many places only suitable for four wheel drive vehicles with a high clearance. Towing caravans is not recommended. So, we’ve been researching tents and sleeping mats. We’re also undertaking regular yoga exercises to try and get us supple enough for rising from a 4 inch air mattress placed on the floor of a tent….. Not as easy now as it was during our tenting days 15 years ago.
We’ve found a touring tent second hand from Gumtree. It’s canvas, so nice to sleep under, and fast to erect. It only needs to be pegged out at the base, and then the insertion of a centre pole, taking around 1 minute. If the conditions are windy it will also then require guy ropes, but most times I gather on the Gibb River, guy ropes won’t be a necessity.
These normally retail for around $500. This one was second hand but was missing it’s centre pole, and is in need of couple of patches. We managed to acquire it for only $50, plus around $40 for a new centre pole and patches for the necessary repairs. Now all we need is the camp mattresses. Comfort is going to be paramount if we’re to enjoy the trip, so we’ve decided on the slightly more expensive bonded mattresses, now it’s just determining which one, and then to find them at the cheapest possible price.
Our plan is to put the caravan into storage in Broome for three weeks whilst we complete this Bucket List destination. We’re also going to tack on a second trip to Cape Leveque, and a road trip into the Bungle Bungles, both also four wheel drive only destinations, and places not suitable for towing a caravan. We’ve done both Cape Leveque and the Bungle Bungles before. Previously we flew into the Bungle Bungles and then did a helicopter tour around the beehive like formations. It’s apparently a totally different experience to drive to it, and to camp overnight. And Cape Leveque – twenty trips wouldn’t be too many trips to this amazing destination. So, tacking on a few days extra for a second trip seems like a good idea.
The Gibb River road stretches from Derby to Kununurra in the far north of Western Australia, with plenty of camp grounds dotted along it’s length. The abundance of hikes, waterfalls, gorges and fresh water swimming holes means the trip can take anything from a few days to a couple of weeks. I gather ten days is about normal to do it justice. So, we should have plenty of time to fit in the other side trips before heading back to Broome to pick up the Travel Home. I’m sure after three weeks of roughing it under canvas, and sleeping on air mattresses we’re going to be looking forward to getting back to the comforts of the caravan.
I just love the planning of our trips. I get almost as much joy out of the planning as I do from the trips. Life’s little pleasures! Gee it’s good to be alive.
The best time to see WA
I don’t usually post twice in a day, but before we get stuck into our latest little domestic project I thought I’d talk first about the best time of year to visit WA. In particular I want to post this for those planning to travel here from interstate with their caravans or camper vans.
At this stage you may be expecting me to say the usual thing people say, ‘anytime’s a good time’. That just isn’t the case in WA. There is definitely a good time to visit, and a good seasonal direction during which to travel. And there’s definitely a not so good time…. We meet so many people who have hated WA, and without fail, everyone of them has been here at the wrong time of year, or been travelling against the better weather patterns. So, if you’re planning a trip up or down the west coast of Australia – read on…
If you plan on coming across the Nullarbor and travelling up the coast towards Broome, be warned the wind blows, and blows, and blows in the spring and early summer And the wind can be cold, icy cold. However around late December the winds start to drop and it gets hot. Any wind after late December is welcomed as a ‘cooling breeze’. This is the time to be anywhere coastal from Esperance up towards Perth. There’s a lot to see in this little corner of WA, so you won’t be bored if you have three to four months here. If you don’t have that long, and plan to travel up the whole WA coast, plan to arrive a little later than December so as you’re not travelling north of Perth before the end of March.
From Perth up to Broome is best enjoyed from late March onwards. The winds have usually completely dropped, the ocean is warm, and the very hot, humid summer temperatures in the north are starting to cool and become pleasant.
Mid April to mid May is a perfect time to visit Coral Bay and the Exmouth Penninsula. Barn Hill and Broome is like paradise from June through to early September. From there I’d recommend travelling on to the Majestic East Kimberleys and the Northern Territory.
There’s inland places that shouldn’t be missed, not least of which is Karijini National Park. Travelling north during the months of May to September will have you in the right place and in the right season to enjoy a side trip to this wonderful area. The season will also be right if you’re wanting to do the Gibb River Road.
If however you’re planning to travel down towards Perth from the NT, I’d recommend the coastal road only up until late August. After that you’ll likely hit strong head winds that can blow all day. The water gets cold and the wind whips straight through you. However, the Great Northern Highway will keep you away from the worst of the chilly winds and will bring you through some glorious scenery in the Pilbara.
The wildflowers that WA is so famous for start in the Pilbara around mid August. So if you’re lucky enough to be travelling towards Perth from the North during the spring, I’d recommend taking it slowly with side trips off the beaten track to get in amongst the glorious wildflower colour.
So, now you have it from a seasoned WA traveller. I’m yet to meet an interstate traveller who has travelled WA in the right direction during the right seasons that hasn’t thoroughly enjoyed what they’ve seen. And I’ve yet to meet an interstate traveller who has travelled WA in the wrong direction for the seasons who hasn’t disliked the whole experience.
WA’s a very big state. It’s a lot less populated than the east coast, so it’s easy and comfortable to travel the bigger distances between fewer towns. There’s a lot here to see, and to experience, but the weather will play a vital part in whether or not you enjoy it. Travel at the right time and I’m sure you’ll find it a pleasure! I do.
The sun sets on Cable Beach
What can I say about Cable Beach that hasn’t been said before. The turquoise waters, the white/gold sands, the blue skies, the gentle breezes, the sunsets…….
We’re on our last night of only a three night stay this time. We’ve swam in the ocean. We’ve enjoyed lovely beach walks. And we’ve relaxed between both on a hired sun lounger in the shade of a beach umbrella.
We’ve eaten fish and chips on the beach at the days end as we waited for sunset.
We’ve walked amongst the rock pools when the tide was out.
We’ve seen the sun lighting up the palm trees as it descends towards the ocean.
We’ve watched the camel trains return from their nightly sunset walk.
We’ve watched the sun dip into the ocean.
We’ve wandered amongst the rock pools as dark approaches.
We’ve watched the sun set turn to yellow.
And then to red.
We can’t wait to return and do it all again.
What a pleasure!
Sunset cruise and swim in Lake Argyle’s Infinity pool
We arrived at Lake Argyle around lunch time on Friday, and spent two nights there. We’ve visited before, but have never stopped over. Last time we visited, it was June 2014, and the famous INFINITY POOL was freezing – way to cold for us to venture in even for the sake of a photo. Not so this time.
It was gorgeous and pleasantly warm, only just cool enough to be refreshing. The pool is considerably above the lake but is designed so as to look as if it is almost part of it. What a delight.
Having heard good things about the SUNSET CRUISE, we decided to give it whirl the next afternoon. First a 45 minute video on the making of Lake Argyle. It’s the largest man made lake in the southern hemisphere, and was built over a three year period from around 1970 – 1973. It’s absolutely massive, with a surprisingly small dam wall. In fact if I recall correctly, it’s the smallest dam wall in the world for the volume of water it’s supporting.
Then a coach picked us up and took us out to the boat. Jack the tour guide, and the skipper were great. What Jack didn’t know about that Lake, and Kununnura mustn’t be worth knowing. He was open to questions, and provided a wonderful insight into the nature of the dam, the spillways, the wildlife, and facts and figures on the Kununurra farms and plantations it supports.
The lake is over a hundred kilometres long, so we only cruised a small section of it. The cliffs surrounding it, and islands in the middle of it are typical of the Top End and the East Kimberleys – red and glorious.
After a small stop in the ‘Bay of Islands’ we moved on for our sunset swim.
About half an hour before sunset, we all jumped, dived or floated off the end of the boat into the water, all with a water noodle to drift around on as we waited for the sun to set. A life ring was floated out to us loaded with glasses of wine and champagne, and with a platter of cheese, dips and crackers. For the beer drinkers, Jack tossed out cans. I finished my glass and floated back to the rear of the boat to see if a refill was possible. Not only was it possible, but Jack was poking the neck of full champagne bottles into small pieces of cut noodle and tossing them into the water for us to refill our own glasses in the water. With the noodle covering the neck of the bottle they float upright. What an experience.
Then the sun set!!!
I’ve seen lots of sunsets, but none whilst swimming in the middle of Lake Argyle with a glass of champagne in my hand. If you have Lake Argyle in your sights for a visit – don’t miss this experience.
But wait, there’s more….. This next part isn’t a usual part of the cruise. In fact, I believe it was a first. There was a full moon rising that night, and Jack knew where it would rise. So, for those of us game enough to get into the water with our cameras Jack told us when and where to have our cameras poised so as to capture the moon and it’s reflections in the water. Similar to the famous ‘Staircase to the Moon’ for which Broome is famous, I don’t think I quite captured it at the right moment. To have had the opportunity to try was something I’ll never forget.
The next day we departed for our two day trip to Broome.
Lake Argyle’s sunset cruise – Up there with the best of pleasures!
Amazing Eastern Kimberleys
We went on our flight to the Bungle Bungles today, flight there, helicopter over the Bungles, and flight back. Totally amazing.
To date the best scenery we’ve ever seen was a few years ago when we flew out over the Bucchaneer Archepelago to the Horizontal Falls. The scenery we’ve seen lately in the East Kimberleys comes a pretty close second. Interestingly, the Horizontal Falls is also in the Kimberleys, but not sure if it’s in the Western or Eastern Kimberleys, probably somewhere near the middle.
We’ve enjoyed our caravan park here with it’s many organised happy hours. Last night we had one of their weekly camp oven dinners. Morroccan Lamb, Beef casserole, Apricot Chicken, and curried Chick Pea and Pumpkin, all served with couscous and a bread roll, and followed with home made damper with maple syrup. Delicious, especially having it all cooked for us, and no cleaning up afterwards.
Tomorrow we’re moving on, into the Northern Territory. We’re planning on one or two nights in a free site near Victoria River on route to Katherine. There’s plenty to see around Katherine so I imagine we’ll be there a few nights before we head to Humpty Doo to catch up with Kelvin.
East Kimberleys
We tried to extend our time in Broome, but it would have meant moving to a different site. So we figured if we had to move it may as well be to new territory, and we headed for Kununurra.
First stop was Fitzroy Crossing where we spent two nights. We went out to Geikie Gorge, did the boat trip up the Fitzroy river, and found a nice place to swim. All very pleasant.
From Fitzroy we headed towards Kununurra with a plan to stop at a roadside stop over night. However, we missed the one we wanted and ended up doing an unplanned long day all the way to the Discovery Park in Kununurra. When we arrived there was a sign up advising there weren’t any powered sites left. As we were pretty tired after the full days drive we hoped they at least had an unpowered site. How lucky were we though, when they realised they had booked someone in twice, which meant they had a vacant powered site. So here we are.
Upon booking in we were invited to happy hour at Croc Rock. Croc Rock is a barbecue area on the banks of Lake Kununurra and only about 50 metres from our site. There’s a massive big rock table there, and also George, a freshie, frequently pops up on the bank there in the evenings to visit. Hence the name, Croc Rock. So, off we went for happy hour down at Croc Rock. The next night, we went there again for a sausage sizzle put on by the park. They had a huge camp fire burning, and everyone brought their chair and drinks down to enjoy either a sausage or rissole buttie and a natter.
This park is famous for it’s social events. Every Saturday they do a sausage sizzle, and on Tuesday mornings they do pancakes. Both of these events are for a gold coin donation for the Flying Drs. On Monday nights they have a barbecue (choice of wild caught Barramundi, or steak) with salads and rolls, and on Wednesday nights they have a camp oven cook out. Both of the latter are for either $10 or $15 a head, cheap for a meal out….. Apparently the camp fire cook out is a huge hit with over a hundred usually turning up.
We went out to the world famous El Questro today. Breathtaking scenery, in fact the Eastern Kimberleys all round has amazing scenery, and like nothing I’ve seen before. Unfortunately photos just don’t do any of it justice. El Questro itself though is like most places that have made a huge name – in my opinion just too big, and with very little owner input, the‘care factor’ diminishes.
We planned on getting to Zebedee Springs around 8.30am hoping to beat the crowds, but first we had to get out to the village area to get our park pass. When there we got sent on a wild goose chase to three apparently unmissable lookouts. After nearly an hour we finally gave up after finding they were all up quite isolated and ‘serious four wheel drive tracks’. Wish she’d mentioned that before we tried to find the unmissable. In fact, she hadn’t even asked if we were in a 4 X 4. We just aren’t experienced enough to tackle that grade of 4 x 4 driving. After we gave up on that and made our way to Zebedee Springs it was past 10am and the crowds had gathered. The springs were stunning but for the masses. Enough said.
After Zebedee we headed for Emma Gorge, a medium graded walk. Paul made it there and back to the gorge, but for me it was too tough and I turned back before even making it half way. I don’t think I could have completed the walk when I was a teenager, let alone a decrepid old woman nearing 60. I’m convinced the person who graded it must have climbed Mt Everest and graded this as ‘medium’ in comparison. It wasn’t steep, but rocky as!!! Mind you, a lot of people older than me were managing it, so it left me feeling a bit deflated to say the least.
So, after years of looking forward to El Questro, I found it all disappointing. Guess that’s the danger of having high expectations.
Life of Riley - on whatever 