Four days in Sanur:

Our re-introduction to Bali after around 25 years began in Sanur. Our accommodation at the boutique Tandjung Sari bungalows certainly saw us off to a good start with Bali. The food at the restaurant, while not exceptional, is definitely on the better side of passable. Its downside, along with the downside of Tandjung Sari as a place to stay, is the prices. It is on the high side compared to other places around. One thing though that I’m pleased to say is that, talking to the staff, it appears the owners aren’t greedy. From what the staff tell us they’re all paid fairly, and according to Government regulations. From what we can gather this isn’t always the case. Some cheaper hotels seem to be maintaining their lower room and meal prices by paying their staff below what the government regulations require. The fact that our hosts appear to be giving their employees a fair cut from their takings certainly goes a long way to us accepting that perhaps we’re paying the right price, especially taking into account the quality of the place, the high attention to detail, and the biggest plus, the staff seem to be proud and content in their jobs.

Additional to the fact that the staff appear to be happy with their pay checks, is the fact that the hotel certainly doesn’t skimp on staff. This is something that is apparent wherever you are in Bali. On an Island where approximately 95% of employment revolves around the tourist industry, it’s clear that a lower wage structure supports more employment. Where ever we go service is always slow, despite an abundance of staff, yet clearly there would be 4 – 5 times as many wait staff in most eateries than are in any eatery in Australia. We’re here on holiday, as is almost everyone else eating in the food places, so what does it matter that service is slow.

When I look around at the Balinese people and their culture it makes me wonder if wealthy countries such as Australia have it right. Clearly people here in Bali are in general much poorer than the general population in Australia, and in general, most people here work longer hours, and for much less pay. Yet they all seem less stressed, and they all seem to be proud of their jobs and their working status. Ayu, our favourite waitress from Tandjung Sari was absolutely delightful, always happy and smiling, good at her job, and proud of her job.

It makes me wonder if western countries that have have fought for higher rates of pay have done themselves any favours. Clearly if one person is required to take on the equivalent work load of 4 – 5 people in countries that offer much lower rates of pay, then that one person is going to have to work 4 – 5 times harder and faster. Maybe that’s the reason so many people in Western countries seem so stressed and are suffering from job dissatisfaction. Maybe in Western countries expectations of everything are just too high, and consequently, we’re all suffering far more stress than we should be.

Anyway enough of that, here’s how we’ve spent our first four days.

Day 1, we settled into our accommodation and did a little bit of orientation around our digs. Our hotel is situated right on the beach with tables spreading across the beach path onto the sandy shore. The beach path runs for approximately 4 kms down the length of Sanur and it’s well kept and pleasant to walk on, providing one either walks on it in the early morning, or the late evening. Following dinner at our digs on the first night we walked along the path, and also upon rising early the following morning. It was quiet and peaceful on both occasions, however by 7.30am the path was teaming with people and dogs, all out for their morning walk. Thank goodness we rose early!

Day 2, We tackled the main street in search of a Tailor. I had brought some clothes with me from Australia that required a few alterations so had decided to make use of one of the many Tailors in Bali. The footpaths in Sanur on the Main Street are the same as elsewhere in Bali, in terrible repair, crowded, and dirty, and that’s just the way I remembered Bali from 25 years ago. My son refers to Sanur as Snore, or Kuta in cardigan, but the Main Street certainly wasn’t any sleepy little place that could justifiably be referred to as ‘snore’. It was chaos! We found a tailor and left my clothes to be altered. Then later we headed in the other direction but this time down the beach path. We found someone selling tickets on the fast boats that go daily to the island of Nusa Lembongan, so we arranged our boat ride to the Island for the four days of this trip following on from Sanur. Those four days will be spent on Nusa Lembongan. We also found the two restaurants that are listed on Tripadvisor as Sanur’s number one and number two. Both restaurants happen to be at the Andaz, approximately 15 minutes walk along the beach path. We booked for that eventing at Wok Wok, and for Saturday night, my birthday night, at the number one restaurant, The Fisherman’s Club. In the afternoon we lay in the sun on the beach lounges with our books before showering and heading to Wok Wok for dinner. Wok Wok was okay, but nothing memorable.

Day 3, A short walk, then an early breakfast before our driver picked us up at 8am for a big day, snorkelling and a private tour of a water fall. We headed up to the port where all the boats leave for Lombok, this was where our boat met us for the snorkelling. I had been wanting to go on one of the boats that line the shores of Sanur and sit there on the banks looking like giant spiders as the sun rises over the sands in the early morning, so was delighted to see that it was one of these boats that would transport us to our two snorkelling spots.

The snorkelling was good, but it was sad to see what had clearly one day been a glorious coral reef, now decimated by the interference of humans in pursuit of the tourist dollar. After snorkelling at two spots for around two hours we were taken back to the port for a shower and light lunch, were met by our driver, Ketut, and taken on our private tour to the waterfall, (a thoughtful Christmas gift voucher from our daughter and son-in-law). The water fall was lovely, but jam-packed with people.

Ketut was the highlight of the day, a real gem and so informative. We learned so much from him, the family structure, how life was during the pandemic, and even the meaning of Ketut. (In case you’re wondering Ketut means fourth born, and that’s why there are so many Ketuts in Bali, and it is only a Balinese name. There is another syllable before Ketut if a female happens to be the fourth born in a family). More on what we learnt from Ketut on how life was during the pandemic a little later…… We returned to the hotel, then wandered down the main street to pick up my alterations from the Tailor. All the alterations look to have been carried out well.

Day 4, 27th May, my 68th birthday. A later start today, so our pre-breakfast walk along the beach path was chaotic. We cut it short and headed back for breakfast. Then out in search of a spa for some birthday spoiling. Both Paul and I had a massage, plus I had a facial and manicure. I was going to have a full pedicure too, but opted out half way through the pedicure. My feet were just far too sensitive to be touched, and trying to keep them still was proving to be agony, so I forfeited the nail varnish. As far as massages go, it was okay, but certainly not the best I’ve had. It was very cheap though, only the equivalent of $75 for the 2 X 1 hour massages, plus the facial, manicure and pedicure. We lunched in house. The staff had noted my birthday and surprised me after lunch with a specially made birthday cake, and three of them sung happy birthday to me as I blew out the candle.

Not only that, but when we returned to our room they had placed a huge version of the usual small floral arrangement in our room with a special note wishing me a happy birthday. It’s those little, and not so little touches that turn what could be an ordinary holiday into something outstanding and memorable. What a pleasure!

We walked down to the Fisherman’s Club for dinner which was pleasant enough, but nothing overly memorable. I did love the big boat tables though.

This morning we said good by to Sanur, Ayu, and the Tandjung Sari and boarded the boat for Nusa Lembongan. I wonder how the next place will compare – the gardens, the staff, the room, and the view at Tandjung Sari have left what I’m sure will be a lasting impression. Thank you to Ayu and everyone else for the lasting memories.