We’ll spend our fourth and last night on Lembongan tonight (for this trip, but we’re sure there’ll be another). Our digs at Palm Grove are certainly adequate, but being up the hill from the beach at Mushroom Bay, the location doesn’t perfectly fit the three L’s (location, location, and location).
There are two types of people who holiday. There are those who are out and about, rushing around like blue arsed flies, from the time they get out of bed to the time their heads touch the pillow again at night. These people want to see and experience absolutely everything a place has on offer. Then there’s those who like to get up and meander around at a leisurely pace, relaxing in their digs, lying on the beach, eating and drinking and just soaking up the ambience, with only a very few site seeing trips to add just a touch of interest. Paul and I are in the later, we spend a lot of time in our digs, so it’s important our digs provide us with the right ambience to enable us to relax without rushing around like ‘blue arsed flies’. There is certainly nothing wrong with Palm Grove, in fact it’s perfect for families, or for those people for whom their digs is simply just a comfortable bed at the end of hectic day. For us though, we’ve spied something that will suit us perfectly next time we come across to this little piece of paradise. I’ll tell you about that soon.
Yesterday we went on our organised tour of the Island. We were picked up and taken to a couple of other beaches, and then out to the mangroves where a punt took us through the peaceful mangroves. It was low tide so the sea water probably looked a bit murkier that it would have looked at high tide. It was oh, so peaceful though. We called our punt guide our ‘Gondolier’, and the punt our ‘gondola’, which we had to explain to our guide. He spent ages making sure he had his tongue wrapped around it, and I’m sure he would have been offering his services as ‘gondolier’ in his ‘gondola’ later that morning when the hoards of tourists arrived from the mainland for their day trips.
We came out of the Mangroves into the calm waters of the ocean where our Gondolier took us around the seaweed farms. He, himself has a small seaweed farm in the area which he started during Covid. The weed is picked at low tide, dried out, and shipped to places like China and Japan to be turned in capsules for medicine, and food, amongst other things. It apparently doesn’t pay very well, but during Covid the people on the Island had to turn to any means they could in order to just survive. Apparently their government promised aid, but most people have said they’re yet to see any such aid. I can only begin to imagine how difficult it must have been for the Balinese people on an Island that relies on tourism for the livelihoods of 95% of its population. We have prompted conversations with many of the locals. One person said first he used all his savings, then he sold almost everything he had, and finally a contact he’d made in Australia offered to help him out. This seems to be a common story – and the people are ever so humble and grateful to Australia and the Australians who have helped them out during what must have been an horrendous two years for them. I say they are humble, but when I hear the sincere gratitude in the voices, I myself feel truly humbled.
Looking back over the seaweed farms towards the mangroves – at high tide the water reaches up to the start of the greenery.
We left the Mangroves and drove on around the Island, the yellow suspension bridge that goes across to the other Island, the Devils tears (where sea swells break into a cave and send a huge misty sea-spray back out and up). Not being one of those holidayers though that is enthralled by everything there is to see, we were happy to get back to our own little piece of paradise at Mushroom Bay. I don’t think I’m hard to please, but really tourism around Bali, almost anywhere doesn’t really enthral me. The resorts are beautifully maintained, but outside the resorts the place is grubby, with unkempt dogs running around, and poor sanitation everywhere. I don’t say that with any judgement, it is what it is. It’s just too sad to see. Yet saying that, the people are lovely. So, I think I’ll be back, and whilst I’ll spend the bulk of my time in the pristine tourist areas, I will venture out from time to time for a reality check, a reminder, that ‘there but by the grace of God, go I’. I was so lucky to be born into the Western world (I think).
Next time we come to Lembongan I think we’ll be staying at Hai Tide in one of their sea side huts. I’ll show you:
With their sun lounges, and with the underneath furnished with tables and chairs, and lounge chairs, and only a few metres from the water’s edge – well what more could a lazy holiday maker like me want. The road down to the bay finishes with these huts to one side at the end of the road, and to the other side the main part of the Hai Tide resort which has three pools and two lovely restaurants. We’ve eaten most of our meals in their restaurants and found them to be very good, and reasonably priced. This is one of the restaurants photographed from the beach.
This is the inside of the bamboo construction.
And this is the view from our table at sunset.
Perhaps it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but for us – what a pleasure!
Life of Riley - on whatever 
We sit in the middle of your description of people on holiday. We like to see things and visit places but we do it at our pace and always allow a rest day or two. Your choice for next time looks lovely.y
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We sit in the middle in some places for sure, but not so much in places such as Bali. The countryside could be so beautiful, but instead it’s often like a rubbish tip, which I find depressing. I also find it hard to see the neglect of animals. The countryside is generally a real contradiction to the people. The people seem to be genuinely gentle and caring.
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Lembongan sounds ideal. Glad it offered so much for you.
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It was lovely to hear your voice on the video of the mangroves. I imagined to to have a remnant English accent but to sound very much like me in tone and pitch! Your final photo looks idyllic, Chris and almost tempts me to want to visit Bali. A place I’ve never wanted to go because I just think of that awful, oppressive humidity and don’t think I could tolerate it. I much prefer colder climates. Living in Queensland is humid enough for me, but I am glad to read of your adventures there. And I wonder if this is the start of something new for you? Instead of travelling in Australia, you are venturing overseas now?
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Our main reason for travel is to find some warmth during our cold winter. Bali is humid as you say Amanda, but it suits us. I can’t do long flights, my legs get to restless in the pressurised cabins, and I have to make sure I fly only in the morning. By late afternoon my legs are unbearable if im on a plane. For the trips we had to do to England when my in laws were alive, I had to get Valium from the Dr for the flights. And I took 4 to get from here to Dubai, and another 4 to then get me to the UK, plus triple the dose of my pramipexole which I have prescribed for my restless legs for each leg of the flight. I’m not good on planes with my legs. Bali is like northern QLD with humidity, but everywhere is air conditioned. It’s not a good place for site seeing though, so crowded, and dirty. It’s a place to take advantage of the warmth, is cheaper than Australia, isn’t booked out like Australia is, and the people are so humble and beautiful.
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I am sorry to hear about your restless legs, Chris. The Moth has some issues with that too, as did a neighbour. That must be so troubling for you. I didn’t know they was medication for it.
I think that the interaction with the Balinese people could be something that attracts me about Bali. I haven’t travelled much since Covid, so I forget how busy Australia has become. Although I imagine you notice this more in the country areas?
How are the mosquitos etc in Bali and the mangroves? They seem to find me easily in summer.
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I’ve been on medication for my restless legs for more than 15 years. It’s the same medication used for Parkinson’s disease. Would rather not take it, but my legs are really severe, and I literally couldn’t stay sane without medication, it’s absolute torture.
There aren’t any mosquitos in the mangroves. Mozzies need fresh, still water to breed, and the water in the mangroves is seawater. There’s no fresh water there at all through the dry season. Mozzies aren’t bad elsewhere.
Australia became too busy for us. Last year we were thinking of getting accommodation in Broome instead of taking the caravan. We started looking in March for July/August. Apart from backpackers everything was more than $1000 a night, but even at that price there was little available. Even with the caravan everything on the west coast has to be booked at least six months in advance, and in Broome a year in advance. In Broome you have to book your caravan site for the following year before you leave.
Bali is a good option for me because of my legs. The country itself though is crazy busy, and dirty. I try to find something to like outside of the resorts, but mainly it’s more enjoyable to stay inside the resort areas. The island is definitely only for tourism, but not natural tourism. It’s been 25 years since my last visit – there was a reason for that! I’ve come here this time with a different mindset. This time I’m going to find something here to like, and I’ll concentrate on that.
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Good for you concentrating on the positive as I am sure they are lots. Many friends love Bali.
I am astounded about Broome wondering who would pay $1000 a night!
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Loads of people by the speed at which everything books out I guess. The accommodation at that price is pretty basic too. I think there are cheaper deals possibly earlier in the year, but not by much.
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It is likely that I won’t get there anytime soon
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The final photo
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