The Majestic Top End

We spent our last afternoon with Kelv three days ago. While a roast was cooking, he proudly showed us around the farm – It’s absolutely huge.

Kelv couldn't be prouder of his mangos if he owned the farm himself.
Kelv couldn’t be prouder of his mangos if he owned the farm himself.
Avenues of trees stretching for miles in every direction.
Avenues of trees stretching for miles in every direction.

The farm now has the contract to provide Coles, one of our biggest supermarket chains with mangoes this year.

Just some of the boxes in packing shed waiting to be filled.
Just some of the boxes in packing shed waiting to be filled.

I can’t believe how much his own home patch has grown. I’m sure the palms are a good 15cms higher, and there’s green lawn now showing where last week it was just red dirt.

Remember this sand patch less than a week ago!
Remember this sand patch less than a week ago!

It was sad to say good bye, but time moves on, and so must we. Friday saw us heading down the Victoria Highway, which forms a section of the Savannah Way, one of Australia’s great drives.

The Victoria River splits the Gregory National Park, home to some of the majestic scenery in Australia. Hundreds of miles of panoramic scenery, so stunning I’m sure my heart missed a beat a couple of times. It was like watching an enormous nature movie, the windshield our giant screen….. Breathtaking.

Majestic.
Majestic.
Breathtaking!
Breathtaking!
More at every turn in the road.
More at every turn in the road.

I believe theres even more stunning scenery to be seen on side trips from the Victoria Roadhouse, which is smack bang in the middle of it all. We didn’t stop this time, but mental note to myself, ‘stay a night or two to explore next time’. A definite must.

After around five hours driving we arrived in Western Australia, then only a short distance further and we were at Lake Argyle. More on that tomorrow.

After almost two and a half years we're back in WA.
After almost two and a half years we’re back in WA.

What a pleasure!

The Spotted Bower Bird

Bowerbirds are small, rather slim birds approximately 30cms long, closely related to birds of paradise.They’re unremarkably blackish-brown, apart from a lilac, retracting crest at the nape of the neck of a mature, bower owning, male. The lilac crest is vivid in colour, but only when he chooses to display it. They’re predominantly an eastern states bird, but we’ve seen quite a few in and around Katherine.

The lilac crest displayed on a male Spotted Bowerbird.
The lilac crest displayed on a male Spotted Bowerbird.

They’re well known for their complex mimicry vocalisations, including mimicking a dog barking, or the noise of a bird of prey should they feel threatened.

The male bowerbirds use twigs to weave a courtship tunnel (or bower). At both entrances to the bower he builds an intricate, colour co-ordinated, display court. Some of these bower sites may be retained by successive generations for upwards of 20 years.

Twigs used to build an intricate bower approximately 400 cms in length.
Twigs used to build an intricate bower approximately 40 cms in length.

There are several different species of Bowerbirds, and each builds their display courts in their own colours.

The richly coloured, yellow Regent Bowerbirds decorate their avenues with snail shells, berries, pebbles and leaves in colours of red-black and yellow-brown. Satin Bowerbirds decorate with blue coloured objects, and Spotted Bowerbirds construct neat piles using white, silver/grey and pale green objects.

Very close to where we’re camped we’re fortunate enough to have a Spotted Bowerbird busily tending his bower and court. He’s fascinating.

If you look closely at the objects in the mounds you’ll see lots of white and silvery grey pebbles, pieces of silver paper, white snail shells, broken pieces of green glass, a few nuts and bolts (most of which have green heads on bolts), and there’s even a 20 cent coin. There’s green leaves and small wild green lemons and green baby mangos.

Note the green heads on the bolts, and the 20cent coin near the left of the courtyard.
Note the green heads on the bolts, and the 20cent coin near the left of the courtyard.
Shiny pieces of crumpled aluminium foil.
Shiny pieces of crumpled aluminium foil.
A clothes peg, and piece of broken glass carefully chosen to colour co-ordinate
A clothes peg, and piece of broken glass carefully chosen to colour co-ordinate
Even the small wild lemons are chosen according to their colour.
Even the small wild lemons are chosen according to their colour.

I’ve raided my sewing box and have placed some small pearly buttons, some green buttons, and a few other pieces of shiny beads etc nearby. It’ll be interesting to see if these pieces take his fancy and end up in his display.

He’s managing to attract a few females to his bower using his special courtship style. This involves walking in wide circles with a raised head, open beak, cocked tail and drooped wings. He often uses props during his display carrying either brightly coloured leaves, pieces of fruit, or items from his courtyard.

He’s a joy to watch, but I’m not so sure he’s finding it such a joy to have us watching him. We’re distracting from both his house keeping, and his courtship. Sometimes nature provides entertainment for which there is no man-made equal.

What a pleasure.

Gardening in Katherine

We’re having lots of catch up time with Kelv here in Katherine. His transportable house was finished within a day or two of us arriving. Not good timing for him as the mango harvest isn’t far off beginning, so his work days are becoming longer.

He managed to get a 1/2 day off work last Friday. His new motor bike was ready in Darwin (a replica of Steve McQueen’s bike in The Great Escape), and his house needed curtains and blinds before he could move in.

So, we had a trip into Darwin with him, firstly to pick out blinds and curtains, and then we dropped him off to pick up his bike and choose his helmet. We headed back to Katherine with all the shopping, leaving him to test drive his new bike to a friends house Darwin. It was already almost almost 5pm by this stage so to dangerous for a 300 km motor-bike trip home on the dark country roads – too many wallabies, kangaroos and cows on the roads in the dark for safe motor-cycling. So, he stayed in Darwin seemingly doing justice to celebrating both his new house, and new motor bike.

He’s bought some basic furniture to get himself started and has now moved in.

This week he’s pulled out all stops to get the front lawn started before his work season starts to demand his full and undivided attention. The front sand patch needed levelling before he could plant lawn seed. After several days of raking and watering it was in reasonable shape – no mean feat after a days work in 37 degrees with increasing humidity. The lawn seed’s now in, along with a small, fast growing tree.

Lawn seed and one small tree has been planted.
Lawn seed and one small tree has been planted.

The back lawn was nothing but a sand patch with a few trees a week ago. With no shortage of water, the sprinkler’s been running constantly. I can’t believe the difference a week of sun, fertiliser and water has made. It’s almost half way to being green now.

What a difference a week of water, sun and fertiliser  makes to a sand patch.
What a difference a week of water, sun and fertiliser makes to a sand patch.

We’ve been doing our bit to help, including planting a small group of golden cane palms, and some small hibiscus to form a hedge.

The mango orchard forms a pleasing back ground from Kelv's back verandah.
The mango orchard forms a pleasing back ground from Kelv’s back verandah.
The beginnings of an Hibiscus hedge.
The beginnings of an Hibiscus hedge.

It’ll be great to come back next winter and see how they’ve all grown.

And after all the gardening, a bike ramp was needed. With the carport yet to be added to the house, and with no garage, the next best place for a motor-bike to be housed is seemingly on the back verandah. As a woman, I couldn’t really relate to this logic, but it made full sense to all the men. So a bike ramp was built, a full days job with both Paul and Kelv working on it.

Kelv adding the final cross plank while his two 'supervisors' look on.
Kelv adding the final cross plank while his two ‘supervisors’ look on.

Then time to test it out.

Going up!
Going up!
And the big test - coming down!
And the big test – coming down!

Coming down was a little hairy!  It only just has enough clearance, and could perhaps have been a little less steep. But he managed it, and I’m sure it’ll get easier with practice.

And now, onto some news of our own. It’s been an eventful week. Firstly,  Paul’s dads ended up back in hospital following a fall. He’s been discharged now, but is again in Butler Green, an intermediate care facility. I think he’ll be home again soon, but it’s looking more like permanent care could be on the agenda soon.

Next news, Dad’s house went to auction last Tuesday, and sold for considerably more than the reserve price. What a relief to have that sold. It was a worry.

And finally, some news all of our own, drum roll please……. We’ve bought another house! In Busselton, beachside and very close to where we had our block of land in Abbey.

Kelv and some friends from Perth were with us for dinner a few nights ago, when Kelv asked us if we were going to be renting this one out too.  He went into hysterics when we explained we’re not, and the reasons why.

Our reasoning is as follows: We love Tassie, we love the Northern Territory, and we love Western Australia. We’re sure there’s no better place in the world to spend summers than in Busselton, with Tassie  a close second (but Tassie does lack Busselton’s more consistent summer climate). And for the winters – for us the Kimberleys and NT beat anywhere else by an Aussie country mile. The consistent weather, the wide open spaces, with room to move and air to breath.And with the biggest surprise for us in this whole road trip being that what we’ve so far seen of the east coast, it doesn’t get a look in, in comparison to the west.

With our love of the East Kimberleys, and the NT, and with Kelv living in the NT, this is where we want to head to for winters. With the boat access from Tassie being so expensive and so restrictive, it isn’t such an appealing place to use as a permanent summer base.

So, there’s been a downturn in the Busselton market, which  seemed like to good an opportunity to pass by. And it was such a good buy that we don’t have to rent it out.

However, we do still have our house in lovely Deloraine, and we do still intend to spend some time there – one day……

And why was Kelv, and Bruce and Wendy in hysterics. Because we’re going to use the Busselton house as our ‘summer house’, for approximately six months of the year, and the rest of the time we’ll keep travelling around this wonderful, vast land. They thought, ‘our summer house’, sounded so toffee nosed. So, for evermore now, it’ll be ‘our summerhouse’.

What a week. What a pleasure!

Dunmarra Road House – worth a stopover

We left Mt Isa and headed for Katherine with two stops on the way. The first was uneventful at Barkley Homestead. The second at Dunmarra Road House had us socialising with some special locals.

I’m not sure what it is about cows and us. A lot of our more special memories from this road trip involve bovine creatures. We had read that Dunmarra has a few resident water buffalo, and if you’re lucky enough you may see one or two wandering between the caravans.

However, the water buffalo seemed to make a beeline for Paul ‘the cow whisperer’, and stayed nearby all afternoon and well into the evening.

Check out the span of those horns.
Check out the span of those horns.
Sharing an apple.
Sharing an apple.
I thought she was going to come inside.
I thought she was going to come inside.
Enjoying a head scratch.
Enjoying a head scratch.
We thought she was going to join us for a beer with the neighbours.
We thought she was going to join us for a beer with the neighbours.
But no, she just wanted another scratch.
But no, she just wanted another scratch.

There were two others that we managed to get close to as well, but these two were the most photogenic. We had a lovely time at Dunmarra. What a pleasure!

We’ve been in Katherine for more than a week now catching up with Kelv, and also our friends Bruce and Wendy. It’s been a busy time with lots happening. We look like having a spare day tomorrow,  so I’ll try and post again and bring you all up to date. There’s lots of news, and I promise – no more cows.

Mt Isa

We’re in Katherine waiting for Kelv to pick us up and take us out to dinner – so a few minutes spare for a quick update.

Firstly, as promised, a little bit about Mt Isa. We stayed there for three nights after leaving the station. It was good to have a bit of time to clean some of the dust out of the caravan, and to just chill down a little after that experience.

Mt Isa is a newish sort of town, located in Queensland not to far from the Northern Territory border. It was only established in the early to mid 20th century when lead, copper, zinc and tin were discovered there. It has since boomed as a mining town, providing wealth for many of the people who flocked here from all over the world.

During the 2nd world war after the bombing of Darwin, it was feared further attacks would follow with Mt Isa’s rich mineral source being a prime target. Within 15 weeks following Darwin’s bombing, the  residents in Mt Isa had built an underground hospital in preparation. Much of it was built by hand, and with only a small population from which to draw volunteers from. Fortunately, the hospital was never used except as a cool place for the nurses to rest during their night shifts. The remoteness of the destination meant there was nowhere for the Japanese to refuel, so the invasion never happened and the hospital has never been more than a tourist attraction. Kudos though to the volunteers who built it in such a short time.

Underground hospital - thankfully never needed.
Underground hospital – thankfully never needed.

Mt Isa is typical of much of Australia’s mining areas – red!!!

The white house on the red hill.
The white house on the red hill.

The towns water is now supplied by Lake Moondarra., a artificial lake built on the Leichhardt River. The lake was created in 1957, a welcome treat for the townspeople who use it for water sports including swimming, boating and fishing. It’s a popular picnic spot.

Man-made in 1957, a welcome addition that provided both water and entertainment.
Man-made in 1957, a welcome addition that provided both water and entertainment.

And that’s about it on Mt Isa. It’s worth a stopover to have a look, but it’s not a holiday destination.

Kelv’s house is finished, and his harvest is almost due to start, so a lot happening at once for him. We’re hoping to stay here for another couple of weeks to help him get started with his garden.

It’s getting humid here now. We’ve debated staying for the build up before the wet, but we have a few things we need to attend to back in WA. That’s our excuse for escaping the humidity anyway, and we’re sticking to it!

This week I want to source some trees and palms for his garden. I love tropical gardens. It’ll be hot planting them out, but it’ll be a pleasure to come back here next winter and see how they’ve grown.

Juries back – thumbs down

Less than four weeks into our station experience and we decided it wasn’t for us. We were in it for the experience, but when the experience wasn’t proving to be a good one, we saw no point in slogging away at it for pay that worked out to considerably less than the minimum Australian hourly rate. Don’t get me wrong, we weren’t in it to earn big money, we weren’t even in it to earn good money, but we had hoped for a pleasant experience for fair money. Neither were evident.

Not all bad though. Station life was something we’d wanted to have a look at,  so we’ve ticked off that box (even if in this case it’s more a big red cross than a tick), at least we’ve had a snap shot look.

Paul managed to get a few more snaps. The cows, although timid in station numbers, are quite beautiful. I’m sure in a very small numbers they’d make gorgeous pets.

Looking healthy and contented.
Looking healthy and contented.
Yum, lip smacking good 'cow lick'.
Yum, lip smacking good ‘cow lick’.

I had always thought the best sunrises and sunsets were evident over oceans, but  we’ve seen some incredible sunrises and sunsets inland. We were treated to some on the station that makes those over the ocean pale in comparison.

P1050382
Gorgeous sunrises
P1050357
And bright sunsets.

We had decided on Wednesday that we would leave. We were going to see out the week-end but it rained Wednesday afternoon, and with rain comes slippery mud, and with slippery mud, the ringers can’t work. So, work was off for Thursday and Friday. There seemed little point in hanging around, so we waited for the muddy roads to dry out enough to allow a safe and sure exit, and we left.

Leaving.
Leaving.

We’ve been enjoying a few days of down time in Mount Isa, which I’ll tell you about soon. I must say, it’s been a treat to start the days with a lovely ‘lie in’, enjoying a cuppa in bed as we peruse the internet. Yes, we’re back to full speed internet and phone cover – what a pleasure!!

Long awaited photos

We have today off, so have driven into town so as to be able to catch up with internet things, one of which is a quick a blog update with some photos from the station.

Before I get to those though – Paul’s dad? Last we heard Social Services were trying to get a care package in place for his discharge from Shawside, either last Thursday, or this coming Monday. We’ve asked to be notified. As we haven’t heard anything to the contrary, we’re presuming Social Services didn’t get their act together for Thursday, so we presume dad will be going home tomorrow – but we’re not holding our breath.

Monthly internet gets updated at the station on the 14th of each month, and runs slightly more efficiently for the first couple of weeks following the update. More efficiently, means we can almost guarantee we’ll be able to get emails through at some time during a 24 hour period, but it may mean going on line around 3am when no-one else is on line. After the first two weeks it goes really slow, and for the last few days before this months renewal we couldn’t get anything at all, at any time of day. Our mobile phone doesn’t get any cover at all, so for anyone trying to contact us, please use email, eventually we’ll pick it up.

And now onto some photos:

A few of the 28,000 head of cattle.
A few of the 28,000 head of cattle.
And a few more.
And a few more.

You’ll notice most of the scenery is miles and miles of wide open spaces, baron and brown. But there’s dams and water holes dotted all around, and the Flinders and Norman Rivers that provide water. With the water comes trees, with the trees comes birds – and with water, trees and birds, and no people for miles and miles comes a peace and tranquility that’s almost spiritual.

The murky, but tranquil Flinders river running through the property - croc habitat, so didn't get too close.
The murky, but tranquil Flinders river running through the property – croc habitat, so didn’t get too close.

The wondrous beauty of the Australia outback. But – would I like to live there forever. I appreciate it’s beauty, but it’s a bit too isolated for me for any real length of time.

Now – onto life at the station. Juries still out I’m afraid. I love the job itself and Paul’s okay with what he’s doing. However, we’ve often said we don’t care what we do, as long as we’re doing it for, and with a nice crew. And there in lies the problem.  We’d thought with only a small crew of around 15 all living on the station that there would be a bit of family type atmosphere with a bit of jovial comaradie. It’s not like that at all. There appears to be a big divide between the managers and the crew, and it doesn’t make for a particularly good working and living environment. It’s looking more and more unlikely that I’ll get to say, ‘what a pleasure’, and being a bit hedonistic, we like our pleasure. That doesn’t mean we don’t like the hard work, we don’t mind that at all. We don’t mind the low pay either,  but the atmosphere has to be right. There seems to be an undercurrent here of discontent, sometimes surfacing into full blown battles, between either management and the boys, or the managements off sider and the boys. Everyone’s unhappy, and the atmosphere gets  heavy.  Shame, it could have been good. But for now, we’ll wait and see. It’s still a bit early to make any knee jerk reactions.

A broken record

Another frustrating weekend as we try to deal with the UK Social Services debacle. We don’t mention it much anymore because nothing changes and we just end up sounding like a broken record.

Now though with the technology limitations here at the station, individual emails aren’t feasible, so the best way of letting everyone know what’s happening with Glyn is via the blog.

Dad was transferred from hospital to Shawside a little over two weeks ago. Social Services bi-passed Paul who has Power of Attorney and went straight to Glyn for approval to admit him to what we gather is one of the most expensive care facilities in Oldham. They had Glyn sign a two week contract whilst he was in hospital being treated for pneumonia, a UTI, and resolving delirium with hallucinations. The two week contract expired on Friday and he should have been sent home.

We went into Karumba to stay overnight on Saturday so as to phone him at home. After several unanswered phone calls we called Shawside – he was still there. Paul spoke with him. He sounded ok, but had no idea why he hadn’t been sent home. No-one seems to be informing either him, or us of anything that’s happening.

We phoned back and spoke to the ward matron enquiring as to why he was still there. Apparently after Social Services obtained his consent they dumped him at Shawside and have made no contact since. This isn’t supposed to happen. Shawside, having assessed him found him fit to return home, but with some daily support. They kept trying to make contact with Social Services to arrange a home care package, but Social Services wouldn’t respond. Showing a proper duty of care Shawside felt they had no option but to keep Glyn in rather than sending him home unsupported. Apparently this isn’t an unusual occurance lately and Shawside sound like they they are about as frustrated with Social Services as we are.

So, another sleepless night worrying about what can be done followed by another morning sending emails to the relevant people to try and make sense of it all. This time I’ve located the complaints department for Social Services and have lodged a complaint. I’ve located the Ombudsman for follow up, should that fall on deaf ears, and if all that fails, I’ve found a UK lawyer that specialises in lawsuits against Social Sevices for negligence. An awful path to have to go down, but I think we’re running out of options. Poor Glyn. I just wish there was something we could do to make his life more comfortable. It shouldn’t be this hard.

Could’ve, would’ve, should’ve – and did!

Not much to report yet on our cattle station experience. We’re both still settling in, and haven’t as yet had a chance to take any photos.

For me, I’m enjoying being back in a kitchen, especially a kitchen as well equiped as this one. The cool room alone is bigger than most commercial kitchens I’ve ever worked in. The only complaint I could make about the equipment is that the oven doesn’t get up to temperature, and in fact sometimes barely gets hot at all. But I have a good electric frypan and a good deep fryer – both of which came to the rescue the other day when the oven went decidedly cool in the middle of my first roast dinner. The next day, the oven was fine again, so I guess it’s a bit temperamental – not unlike myself.

Pauls on a big learning curve, driving a few sorts of machinery he’s never driven before. He’s out in the heat, and still finding his feet, but he thinks he’s going to like it. I can see he’s enjoying being back with boys. The comaradie men at work seem to enjoy.

Technology, or rather, lack of technology is going to be the hardest thing to take. I’m only able to write this as we have the week end off, so are staying overnight in Karumba. We”ll be catching up with emails while we’re here, and Paul will phone his dad tonight. At the station we don’t have any phone cover at all, and email is appalling. At the beginning of last week we were managing to download emails, but each one was taking around 20 minutes to fully download. By yesterday nothing would come through at all. I believe the Internet at the station is renewed on the 14th of each month though, and runs faster just after renewal, so hopefully we’ll have a couple if trouble free weeks coming up.

We’re both still definitely finding our feet. The money – if converted to an hourly rate is woeful. Neither of us can remember a time when we earned such a low hourly rate. But, then again, we can’t spend anything either, and our keep is included. So, we can’t remember a time when our outgoings have been this low either.

At the end of the day, it won’t be a monetary job worth writing about, but taking incoming and outgoings into consideration it’ll even out ok. The biggest thing for us is that at the end of our days – when we’re looking back over our road travelled, it’s going to be a Would’ve, Could’ve, Should’ve experience, that we will be able say,  yes we took that opportunity, we did that! One of life’s little experiences that will have helped us live a full, rich life, and that’s what’s it’s all about.

Juries still out though as to whether or not we can actually say, ‘what a pleasure’. Watch the space – I think it’s coming….