Author: Chris Riley

The Horizontal Falls

| Chris Riley

Continuing on from The Buccaneer Archipelago…….

Swimming off the pontoon wasn’t an option

After witnessing the most amazing scenery to get to Talbot Bay, we boarded the pontoon to await our pre-lunch scenic cruise. As I remember it, it was a warm and humid day. A swim would have been most welcome, but on second thoughts – nah!! At the time we visited in 2010 the staff on board the pontoon used to feed these sharks. I think that today you can swim with them, (I guess from within the safety of a shark cage). I think the swimming is done near the pontoon, so quite likely, these same fish.

No diving off the boat either

After a bit of relaxation we boarded a small motor boat for our scenic tour. A gentle cruise around some of the Islands and waterways provided a bit of background to the flora and fauna in the area.

A Rock wallaby peering out from behind some rocks
Boat seats, or should I say saddles

Then back to our base for a barramundi fish barbecue lunch before boarding our jet boat for the excursion to, and over the Horizontal Falls.There were some bench seats on the boat, but most people chose the safety of straddling a seat with a bar to hold onto. Once we entered the falls, I’m sure those of us riding bronco style appreciated the security of that hand hold. I’m pretty sure I, for one, would have been white knuckled as I hung on.

Looking back at the photos it all looks much more innocuous than it felt. In reality it was more exhilarating than any fair ground ride.

The jet boat was almost as long as the gap was wide that we were to go through. Fortunately, our skipper knew what he was doing. He lined us up, and then with all engines screaming and all of us hanging on for grim death, we shot full throttle upwards towards the horizontally, tumbling waters.

Entering the falls
about mid way
and then the final ascent
The falls receding behind us
Looking back the tranquility defies the reality of what we’d just experienced

We went back for another go, and a third, and maybe even a fourth. One things for sure, we couldn’t get enough of it.

Then back to the pontoon to board our seaplane for the return trip to Broome. Looking down on the falls on our departure it was hard to imagine the sheer force of the water. It looked so tame…

The falls again from the air on our departure

And that was our trip to the Horizontal Falls, now almost eight years ago. It was then, and remains so today the absolutely best travel experience we’ve ever had. Would we do it again? – I don’t know. I’m always a little weary of repeating something that’s provided an amazing memory. What if it isn’t as good as I remembered it, then the memory would be spoilt for ever more. So, much as I’d love to, and want to, I don’t know if I should.

We did the full day tour. The cost today for that tour is around $1000 (give or take a little bit). The half day tour (approximately 6 hours in total) is a little bit cheaper, and there’s an overnight option for a little bit more. For the overnight option, as I remember it, the pontoon has ensuite cabins on board. The overnighters usually get to experience going over the falls in both directions, using both the incoming, and outgoing tides.

Then there’s also a 4 night trip at the cost of around $4000. This option incorporates  some fishing and some pristine swimming holes away from the dangers of the crocs. I’m sure, there would be some spectacular scenery on offer cruising round the archipelago. If I was tempted into doing it again – I think this is the option I’d have to chose, just so as it incorporated a little more than before.But, as I’ve already seen both the archipelago from the air, and experienced the amazing Horizontal Falls, perhaps I’ll save the money for a completely new experience, a completely new pleasure!

If you haven’t already done the falls, the half day excursion is all you need to put something absolutely amazing into your own book of life. If you include anything extra, whilst enjoyable no doubt, in reality I’m sure it’ll only be providing background to the shining star – The Horizontal Falls.

This is an absolute Bucket List destination. For both Paul and I, it surpassed swimming with the whale sharks off Ningaloo Reef, and it surpassed our amazing glamping sojourn last year to the Mitchell Plateau and falls. Those two things, whilst both being absolutely stand out experiences, pale in comparison to The Horizontal Falls. Photos, nor relating the experience can come close to letting you live the experience vicariously. It’s something you have to do for yourself to appreciate it. So, if you haven’t already done this, and if it’s at all possible, please put this excursion high up on your bucket list, and make sure you tick it off. You won’t regret it.

 

 

The Buccaneer Archipelago

| Chris Riley

It’s almost eight years now since we visited Horizontal Falls. The falls are located near Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago. To date, The Buccaneer Archipelago is a county mile in front of anything I’ve ever seen, and going over the Horizontal Falls in a jet boat is a country mile in front of any experiences I’ve ever had. More on the Horizontal Falls though in a later post – I suspect this one is going to be a lengthy chapter covering just the trip to get there.

In July 2010, whilst we were still working we took a rushed trip up to the Kimberley area, along with our good friends, Dianne and Bob. There were so many highlights on that trip, but the stand out highlight was Horizontal Falls, and that includes the trip to get there.

Firstly, from Broome,  we boarded a small (very small) plane to begin our journey. I think it was either a five, or six seater including the pilot. For this trip anyway it certainly held only us four, plus the pilot.

Smallest plane I’ve ever been on

First stop was Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm located toward the top of the Dampier Peninsula.  We were treated to a land-based tour which gave us an insight into the fascinating history of pearling, and how some of the pearls from the farm are chosen to be recognised as being amongst the most sought after and beautiful South Sea Pearls in the world. We were even allowed to try on one of their beautiful strands apparently valued at the time at around $20,000. (As I remember it, we were watched very closely).

Pearls fit for a queen, or at least a celebrity

After morning tea we boarded a small sea plane and headed out over the Buccaneer Archipelago.

1st ever seaplane ride

The take off on the bumpy, red-dirt runway was a bit hair-raising to say the least, but when we saw what was  awaiting us below, it was worth every bone shaking bump. The  most breathtakingly, beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen, with colours so vivid they didn’t look real. To this day it’s hard to believe what we were seeing hadn’t been photo-shopped way beyond reality. The 50 or so square kilometres of brightly coloured azure seas, with over 800 rocky islands, each fringed with mangroves and the vividest of moss green vegetation looked surreal to say the least.

The most amazing scenery
Surreal colours
So many Islands

Finally, the little gap in Talbot Bay came into view – Horizontal Falls.

1st view of the falls below

Down we went, landing on the calm blue waters before gently gliding in to the pontoon that was to be our base for lunch and an afternoon of exploring the islands – and of course, our Horizontal Falls adventure.

Landed, although that doesn’t seem like the right term for a sea plane on the water

To be cont…..

Where do you keep your friends phone numbers

| Chris Riley

We’ve just shared a sausage sizzle with friends (Bruce and Wendy) and their four grandchildren who are camping nearby.

During the course of the afternoon Bruce shared the sad news that he has to return to Perth on Friday for a funeral. One of his friends passed away unexpectedly last week. He was only 62.

So – what has that to do with phone numbers….. Well the son of the deceased friend felt he should contact some of his dad’s friends with the sad news. However, all of the friends contact details are stored in his dad’s mobile phone, and he has no idea of the password to gain entry. Luckily the friends son is also face book friends with Bruce and Wendy’s son, and so contact with at least one friend was initiated, and from there further contacts have been found.

Our conversation today included a few, ‘what ifs’. What if we get killed together in an accident – do our families have access to our ‘contacts’. There was a time when we all either had an address book, or a teledex to list our friends and relatives contact details. Now,  if you’re like me, your address book will hold very little information, and your friends and relatives will all be listed in your mobile phone. A secret password will be needed to gain entry.

I don’t know about you, but I’m definitely letting my children know my phone’s password…..

An era ends

| Chris Riley

Just prior to Christmas we sold our rig, ending an era in our lives.

An era ends. We bid farewell to our beloved Travelhome

With the photo of the rig heading my blog since it’s inception, I feel as if I’ve lost my on line identity. However, in retrospect, and despite the intentions of what the blog set out to be, it twisted and turned, as did we, in all manner of directions. In reality both the blog, and Paul and I, had moved a long way from where we were heading in the beginning. Reality check, – perhaps that part of my identity never really eventuated, or existed.

Originally, the blog, lifeofrileyow.com was set up to record and represent the life we’d set out to have – the life of Riley on wheels, the wheels being our beloved Travelhome. However, life seemed to take us down an alternate path, and as you’re probably aware, last year we took ownership of a little house in Busselton. Our full time travel ended.

The blog continued throughout the often erratic times that led to the abandonment of the original plan. Whilst it didn’t remain true to it’s intention of recording ‘our life on wheels’, it never-the-less recorded the often erratic and always eclectic, Life of the Rileys, whether on wheels, or not.

Our rig will be replaced. We’ve bought half of it – a Prado, which will now be our only car. The other half of our rig will most definitely be replaced with a much smaller version. With our travel now likely to only be for a few months during the winter, and perhaps an occasional short summer trip, only a small van will be needed. We have our eye on a New Age Manta Ray 16ft, but that’s not yet confirmed. Whatever we end up with needs to be well within the legal weights allowable for a Prado tow.

With the departure of our rig we’ve been in need of a new blog identity. Not wanting to change the web address, we needed something more appropriate for the OW to represent. I searched my brain for something using OW that seemed to represent the eclectic direction our blog posts  have taken. Finally,  ‘On Whatever’ came to mind. However, I’d no sooner thought of it, and it had gone again. I was blank. I told Paul I was searching my brain for something for the OW to represent, and within a second he spat out ‘On Whatever’. So, ‘life of Riley – on whatever’, it is. Now all I have to do is find a photo for the cover page. I have a few in mind. Do any seem to reflect our often erratic, and always eclectic way of life? Or do I need to keep searching, perhaps wait for the new rig to arrive? What do you think?

Taken on our Gibb River trip last year
A rock window at Entrance point, Broome
having fun in the setting sun on Cable Beach
Feeding the birds at Port Stephens
In front of Mitchell Falls
Driving across Drysdale River

Perhaps there’s another photo already posted that you think would be appropriate. Let me know if there’s one stands out to you that I’ve overlooked.

The Busselton Jetty and it’s underwater observatory

| Chris Riley
So much to see

There’s so much to see and do in the Busselton/Margaret River, and it’s easy to get complacent about what’s on our own doorstep. Every now and again we set out on the tourist route, to get a fresh and renewed appreciation of this wonderful area that we have the good fortune to call, ‘home’.

Recently, we visited Busselton’s iconic jetty, took the train ride to the end of the almost 2 km long structure, and went down into the beautiful underwater observatory.

It’s a long walk out – we took the train

First  though a bit of background on the jetty:

In 1865 a 150metre long jetty was built to cater for cargo vessels importing and exporting timber and other produce to and from the Busselton area. The wooden jetty was continually extended until by 1960 it had reached 1841 metres, making it the longest timber jetty in the southern hemisphere.

However, by 1971 the jetty had ceased operation and quickly deteriorated, receiving little in the way of maintenance. Then in 1978 Cyclone Alby struck, taking out much of the first 700 metres of the old jetty. The government of the day decided to demolish the remainder.

They hadn’t counted on the spirit and tenacity of the people of Busselton. Groups were formed who successfully lobbied to obtain funding for the the restoration and upkeep of the structure. I’m so pleased they did.

Amazing life and colours on the piles

The encrusted piles of the jetty are predominately jarrah logs, 16 metres in length, sharpened at one end and driven 4 – 5 metres into the limestone seabed. The cross beans give the piles support and strength to support the decking above. The 12 metre wide decking provides the shade required for the unique marine life on the jetty piles beneath.

An underwater observatory was constructed for the jetty on land at Henderson Shipping yards, and then towed by tug boat to Busselton. Upon arrival, the 550 ton observatory was secured to the sea floor using 18metre long bolts, and opened officially to the public in December 2003.

The jetty is, without any doubt, the most iconic structure in Busselton. Extending out into Geographe Bay almost 2 kms, it remains the longest wooden pylon jetty in the southern hemisphere.

If you’ve never seen the delights that gather around jetty pylons, especially in the clear waters of Geographe Bay, you really must put a trip out to the underwater observatory on Busselton Jetty on your, ‘must see and do’ list.

What lies beneath is a stunningly beautiful underwater garden.

Soft white Telesto coral
Orange sponges, pretty pinks and blues – an underwater rainbow

You can walk the length of the jetty for a small fee, or there’s a train that can take you either one way or the return trip. I’d recommend visiting the observatory while you’re there.  There is a small cost involved to use the jetty, with a slightly bigger cost to take advantage of the train. The fees charged for using the jetty, and the admission fees to the observatory all contribute to the ongoing maintenance and restoration of the Jetty.

What a pleasure it is to live in Busselton!

Footnote: I’ve noticed posters popping up around town that indicate you can now ‘walk under the jetty’. I haven’t as yet checked out the details, but if you’re coming to the area you may want to check this option out.

No-one told me it was going to be this hard

| Chris Riley

Ok I’ve used crutches before, and they weren’t easy as I remember it. That was years ago when I tore a calf muscle in my left leg. I was allowed to put my injured left leg on the ground with the crutches taking the bulk of my weight, and I managed.

Today the reality of having the opposite leg, my dominant leg, out of action and not being allowed to put that foot to the ground at all paints a whole different picture of ‘hard’. Firstly I tried crutches, then a zimmer frame (yes you read that correctly – a zimmer frame).

Its so much harder having to keep your foot completely off the ground. Anyway I’m home now, but accompanying me is not only a zimmer frame, but also a wheel chair, and – wait for it, a toilet frame. Hells Bells…. who’d have thought it. Apparently its easier to get around after a hip or knee replacement than it is to get around after a tendon repair job.

I have to keep my foot raised above my heart level for 23 hours a day. Thank goodness I have my electronics, and books to read. Not to mention Paul…. Thank goodness for Paul. This won’t be the first time I’ve wondered what id do without him.

Forced rest

| Chris Riley

My fellow bloggers may have noticed I’ve been tardy at reading your posts over the past few weeks. This has partly been because of the busy season, but also has been deliberate.

For five years I’ve been trying to manage an ankle injury, without success. After having tried the less invasive treatments with little relief, late last year I sought the help of an orthopaedic surgeon. X-rays and MRI Scans confirmed damaged tendons in my ankle.

With surgery booked for today, and knowing I’m going to be laid up for several weeks, I’ve been stockpiling my emails, and posts of the blogs I follow to catch up on during my forced rest.

I had the surgery this morning, a tendon tear has been repaired, some bone has been removed, and whatever else needed has been done. My leg is currently in plaster, and will be for two weeks, followed by several weeks in a moonboot, and then physio. So, lots of forced rest, and plenty of time to catch up on everyone’s happenings.

I’m still in the capable hands of the nurses in hospital, but tomorrow I’ll return home to Paul’s care. Paul missed his true vocation. He would have made a brilliant nurse so I’m going to be in safe, caring hands.

It’ll be a while before I’m on my feet again, but I’m assured the surgery went well, and I can expect a successful result. I hope so.

I wonder how Mr Tilly will be tonight. I don’t think he suffers separation anxiety to the extent that some dogs suffer it, but he does definitely show a certain amount of anxiety when one of us is absent. A whole night with one of us not being there is sure to have him feeling just a little out of sorts. I’m sure he’s bound to give me a rousing welcome home in the morning. Just hope his welcoming exuberance doesn’t literally bowl me off my good leg.

And now it’s time to get stuck into my waiting emails and blog posts.

Mr Tilly’s first Christmas causes knee jerk reaction

| Chris Riley
Opening his pressies
Enjoying his beef-hide cracker on Luka’s bed

Mr Tilly is settling down again after his first Christmas, and today – so are we. I say today, as we’ve been at sixes and sevens now for a couple of weeks, not knowing if we’ve been coming or going (literally).

With so many people here over the Christmas period Mr Tilly was never at a loss for attention. He loved having the two young teenagers here, Luka and Emma, who were both more than willing to play any number of games with him, including ‘chase’. He loves ‘chase’!

Our little house is situated on the corner of busy Bussell Highway. Sometimes, particularly over the busy holiday seasons (Christmas and Easter), the traffic noise can get a bit intrusive. We’d thought that the noise was the only problem with our location, and have been planting screening plants and bird attracting natives ever since we moved in. The plan has been to block out a little of the noise, and to provide a distraction from it in the form of bird song. As yet, the plants are still immature, so it’s early days yet to see how successful the plantings will be.

However, as we were to find out, there’s more problems that go with living so near a main road than noise…..

After many games of chase with Luka over Christmas, grandson Tim arrived. We usually allow Mr Tilly to accompany us outside when guests arrive, and he’s always so excited to see the visitors that there’s no danger of him doing anything except following them back into the house to say hello. However, upon Tim’s arrival,  seeing another long legged younger male, he excitedly took off towards busy Bussell Highway, I think trying instigate a game of chase.

Back in the safe arms of Emma

I couldn’t begin to relate the panic that followed, and I won’t go into  details. Fortunately, tragedy was averted, and Tilly was returned indoors to safety.

We were lucky that time, and realising we may not be so lucky if there’s ever a second time,  we had since been planning to move house. However, today we’ve realised it’s early days yet for that, and it’s probably a bit of a knee jerk reaction.

Sanity has returned, and a more sensible, less knee jerky plan has evolved. Tomorrow Paul is going to arrange some fencing to go between the posts of our front verandah. The fencing will provide a second barrier between our front door and access to the busy corner roads. Additionally, now the silly season is over again we should soon be able to re-commence dog obedience training – and Mr Tilly will hopefully learn to respond immediately to the”come” command regardless of exciting distractions.

So that means we’re not moving – well not this year anyway. We want to see the plants grow, and the birds arrive to enjoy them. Plus we’ve hardly begun yet to knock this little house into shape yet. Watch this space for improvements yet to come……

I think we’ll still be here at this time next year, and hopefully I’ll be recording photos from our little boy’s second Christmas. For now though here’s a couple more from Mr Tilly’s first Christmas:

He loved his Christmas Cracker
Digging at the beach (the only place he’s allowed to dig)
What a cutie

The meeting of the cousins, first cousins once removed, second cousins etc

| Chris Riley

The silly season is over for 2017.

Our little Summer House was bursting at the seams as the year drew to a close. Our three bedrooms were full. The garage was turned into a makeshift fourth bedroom, we had a tent for two in the side garden, and two swags in the back garden. Including ourselves, we had twelve people staying here during the peak, which may not sound a lot. In a small, apartment sized house though believe me when I say, it was definitely a full, full house.

Luka and Emma’s accommodation

 

The first arrivals from the UK were the Moase Clan patriarch and matriarch – Margaret and Geoff, (Margaret is Paul’s first cousin). Next to arrive were the Aussie branch of the Moase clan. Christopher, (Paul’s first cousin once removed) with Clare and their two children, Luka and Emma, who, if my research is correct, are Paul’s cousins twice removed.

Christmas day…….

The pressies were opened

The table beautifully decorated by Margaret

The Figgy Pudding was devoured

And after Christmas dinner the obligatory charade games.

Luka acting out the fourth word
Clare acting out her bit
Then came Emma…..
And Geoff’s not so silent attempts had us all in stitches

Boxing day and the rest of the family guests started to arrive. Firstly, Alice and Paul (Green), and shortly after, number 1 grandson Tim. Number 2 grandson, Josh, couldn’t make it till the next day – (he, along with the rest of his band, Raksha,  were concluding the recording of their second EP)

With us all together, the beach seemed the obvious place for a big family day. So, with canoes, a beach shelter, chairs and a beach game loaded into the cars we headed down to Sandy Bay.

A beautiful day for a family get together
The Green family males
Alice and Josh

It was whilst we were out to dinner one night that Clare made the mistake of asking what relationship everyone was. Clare doesn’t know me well enough yet to know that such an enquiry will result in yours truly (me) researching the topic to find out. It’s very complicated…….

Alice and Christopher are (if I have this right) second cousins. Tim and Josh are, I think, third cousins to Luka and Emma. Luka and Emma are cousins twice removed to Paul (Riley), and Tim and Josh are cousins twice removed to Margaret. And if you understand all that, you’re doing damned well……

I think I speak for us all when I say we all had a wonderful time. Everyone pitched in and did their bit to help. It’s the first time the two younger generations have met, and they all seemed to enjoy getting to know each other, and seemed to get on well enough. I’m sure it won’t be the last time they get together (especially now they have had their place in the family tree explained to them….)

Tim and Josh doing their share of the washing up

The conclusion to 2017 – a hectic pleasure!