Author: Chris Riley

What to do when you can’t do anything else

| Chris Riley

I thought I’d stockpiled plenty to keep me occupied during my two weeks of forced total rest (leg in plaster and must be kept elevated). I’d deliberately left dozens of posts from blogs I follow unread – I caught up with all of them in the first three days.

Yacht anchored overnight at Cape Leveque

Although I’ve written extensively on our recent trips to the Kimberleys over the past few years, there were a few experiences we had in the Kimberleys during our pre-blog days that had created great memories. I’d earmarked a few of them to write posts on – now all done. It was great to write them up, I almost felt like I was re-living the original experiences.

I’ve read a novel that had been recommended. ‘Our souls at Night’ by Kent Haruf. It’s only a short little novel, but a great read, and just little bit sad…..If you haven’t already read it, I’d recommend it.

I’ve accustomed Mr Tilly to being brushed a little more, and I’ve managed to sneak in clipping his nails. He’s always been reasonably tolerant of having a hair cut (with scissors only though, no clippers, and not around his face), but he’s not been tolerant of being brushed, or having his nails clipped. During my forced rest he spends a lot of time snuggled next to me on the couch, so I’ve used the time to good advantage. He’s getting a bit more tolerant now when he sees the brush in my hand – a way to go yet though.

Good company, snuggling next to me on the couch

I’ve begun researching a camper van trip to New Zealand’s South Island for early next year. I have two brothers who live in Christchurch, and one will turn 70 in February 2019.  All going well, we’ll coincide his birthday celebrations with this long awaited camper van trip.

We’ve done our research for our replacement caravan, and have decided to go with a new one. We’ve chosen a 16ft, Prado friendly (weights are suitable), New Age, Manta Ray. All finishings have been chosen. Would you believe it, the sales manager drove down here from Perth with all the samples so as we could get our order finalised for the earliest possible delivery. That’s a 6 hour driving day, plus almost two hours here. Now that’s what I call service! The van should be delivered by no later than 1st June.

I’m now starting to research this years caravan trip. This one is going to be whole new experience for us. With Mr Tilly being a new addition to our household,  he’ll be coming along for the ride. One thing I’m finding is that most of the on-line information on travelling with dogs doesn’t quite seem to fit our scenario. There’s lots of basic sort of information, what to take, and how to secure your animal for safer car travel, and there’s quite a bit of information on travelling with a dog and children together. There doesn’t seem to be anything much that actually gives a running account of how a triip taken by Grey Nomads with a dog goes. If anyone is aware of any, please let me know.

I’ll be starting a whole new set of categories. These will include preparing for a trip with a dog. And a week by week, or day by day account of any trips we take. These will no doubt commence soon.

I revisit the surgeon after two more sleeps (yes, I’m counting down the sleeps), and hopefully the plaster will come off and be replaced with a moonboot. I think that means I’ll still be considerably incapacitated for some time to come yet, so most of my posts are likely to be research based rather than based on actual experiences. And being sat on my bum, with plenty of time on my hands, I’m likely to have lots of time to put into research. Apologies if I get a bit boring!

 

Cape Leveque

| Chris Riley

The Dampier peninsula stretches approximately 220 kilometres north from Broome. At the northern most tip lies Cape Leveque, and the Kooljiman Resort/camp ground. At this stage you’ll need a four wheel drive with good clearance to get there, but there has been on-going rumours that the road is soon to be sealed. (Those rumours have abounded since we first went in 2010 – the road remains the same).

We had the good fortune to include a trip to Cape Leveque in 2010.  There’s various places to stay on the peninsula, but as the Kooljiman Resort is right at the tip, it offers easy access to both the rising sun from the east, and the setting sun from the west. It’s an ideal location to see just how good the sun can be at different times of day.

Looking out to the right from our beach shelter

For our stay we rented a three sided beach shelter on the eastern side. We had our camper trailer at the time, and parked that beside the shelter, whilst Dianne and Bob set up a small tent inside. There was a cool water shower in the corner of the shelter, and a picnic table outside overlooking the water. The loos, and hot water showers were a bit of a trek away, but we often just made do with the cool shower in our own shelter.

And to the left

From the time the sun came up in the morning, to when it set in the evening the days were filled with so much to see and do. Being on the eastern side of the peninsula we had the joy of seeing the sun rise over the ocean, something rare for those of us who live in the west of the country.

The sun beginning to light up the sky

Sometimes we’d wake to an empty ocean view, and sometimes we’d wake, green with envy, when some lucky person or two had anchored their yacht just offshore.

Yacht anchored overnight

There was always plenty to do throughout the day. The water was only a few steps from our shelter, and absolutely perfect for a dip. In case you’re wondering, crocodiles and stingers are prevalent around the Dampier peninsula, everywhere that is except at the Cape. Apparently the tides there keep them away, or so I’m told. So we swam in safety, the guys managed to throw a line in a few times, and we went for plenty of beach walks.

Cruise ship anchored offshore

When we were at the shelter there was always something happening on the water to look at. Sometimes it would be a fellow camper doing some kayak fishing, or sometimes it would be one of the small luxury cruise liners anchored up ferrying passengers in for some shore time.

And then when the sun started it’s decent it was time to head around to the western side of the peninsula. Cape Leveque is famous for it’s sunsets, but it’s not as you’d imagine. It’s not the sky that brings artists and photographers from near and far to capture the glorious spectacle as the sun drops towards the horizon. As the sun sinks towards the horizon the rays hit the orange cliffs lining the shore. They shine bright, almost as if they’re lit from inside.

Cliffs lit up by the setting sun
Yes – these colours are for real

Just another place that adds to the ‘colours of the Kimberley’, and no trip to this glorious region would be complete without a trip to the Cape.

There’s various forms of accommodation at Kooljaman ranging from camping options, either in the campground, or at one of the beach shelters. There’s also different levels of houses to rent. Check them all out long before you arrive though to make your selection, and book early. They book out early in the season.

Just another wonderful Kimberley destination to add to your bucket list…..

 

The Horizontal Falls

| Chris Riley

Continuing on from The Buccaneer Archipelago…….

Swimming off the pontoon wasn’t an option

After witnessing the most amazing scenery to get to Talbot Bay, we boarded the pontoon to await our pre-lunch scenic cruise. As I remember it, it was a warm and humid day. A swim would have been most welcome, but on second thoughts – nah!! At the time we visited in 2010 the staff on board the pontoon used to feed these sharks. I think that today you can swim with them, (I guess from within the safety of a shark cage). I think the swimming is done near the pontoon, so quite likely, these same fish.

No diving off the boat either

After a bit of relaxation we boarded a small motor boat for our scenic tour. A gentle cruise around some of the Islands and waterways provided a bit of background to the flora and fauna in the area.

A Rock wallaby peering out from behind some rocks
Boat seats, or should I say saddles

Then back to our base for a barramundi fish barbecue lunch before boarding our jet boat for the excursion to, and over the Horizontal Falls.There were some bench seats on the boat, but most people chose the safety of straddling a seat with a bar to hold onto. Once we entered the falls, I’m sure those of us riding bronco style appreciated the security of that hand hold. I’m pretty sure I, for one, would have been white knuckled as I hung on.

Looking back at the photos it all looks much more innocuous than it felt. In reality it was more exhilarating than any fair ground ride.

The jet boat was almost as long as the gap was wide that we were to go through. Fortunately, our skipper knew what he was doing. He lined us up, and then with all engines screaming and all of us hanging on for grim death, we shot full throttle upwards towards the horizontally, tumbling waters.

Entering the falls
about mid way
and then the final ascent
The falls receding behind us
Looking back the tranquility defies the reality of what we’d just experienced

We went back for another go, and a third, and maybe even a fourth. One things for sure, we couldn’t get enough of it.

Then back to the pontoon to board our seaplane for the return trip to Broome. Looking down on the falls on our departure it was hard to imagine the sheer force of the water. It looked so tame…

The falls again from the air on our departure

And that was our trip to the Horizontal Falls, now almost eight years ago. It was then, and remains so today the absolutely best travel experience we’ve ever had. Would we do it again? – I don’t know. I’m always a little weary of repeating something that’s provided an amazing memory. What if it isn’t as good as I remembered it, then the memory would be spoilt for ever more. So, much as I’d love to, and want to, I don’t know if I should.

We did the full day tour. The cost today for that tour is around $1000 (give or take a little bit). The half day tour (approximately 6 hours in total) is a little bit cheaper, and there’s an overnight option for a little bit more. For the overnight option, as I remember it, the pontoon has ensuite cabins on board. The overnighters usually get to experience going over the falls in both directions, using both the incoming, and outgoing tides.

Then there’s also a 4 night trip at the cost of around $4000. This option incorporates  some fishing and some pristine swimming holes away from the dangers of the crocs. I’m sure, there would be some spectacular scenery on offer cruising round the archipelago. If I was tempted into doing it again – I think this is the option I’d have to chose, just so as it incorporated a little more than before.But, as I’ve already seen both the archipelago from the air, and experienced the amazing Horizontal Falls, perhaps I’ll save the money for a completely new experience, a completely new pleasure!

If you haven’t already done the falls, the half day excursion is all you need to put something absolutely amazing into your own book of life. If you include anything extra, whilst enjoyable no doubt, in reality I’m sure it’ll only be providing background to the shining star – The Horizontal Falls.

This is an absolute Bucket List destination. For both Paul and I, it surpassed swimming with the whale sharks off Ningaloo Reef, and it surpassed our amazing glamping sojourn last year to the Mitchell Plateau and falls. Those two things, whilst both being absolutely stand out experiences, pale in comparison to The Horizontal Falls. Photos, nor relating the experience can come close to letting you live the experience vicariously. It’s something you have to do for yourself to appreciate it. So, if you haven’t already done this, and if it’s at all possible, please put this excursion high up on your bucket list, and make sure you tick it off. You won’t regret it.

 

 

The Buccaneer Archipelago

| Chris Riley

It’s almost eight years now since we visited Horizontal Falls. The falls are located near Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago. To date, The Buccaneer Archipelago is a county mile in front of anything I’ve ever seen, and going over the Horizontal Falls in a jet boat is a country mile in front of any experiences I’ve ever had. More on the Horizontal Falls though in a later post – I suspect this one is going to be a lengthy chapter covering just the trip to get there.

In July 2010, whilst we were still working we took a rushed trip up to the Kimberley area, along with our good friends, Dianne and Bob. There were so many highlights on that trip, but the stand out highlight was Horizontal Falls, and that includes the trip to get there.

Firstly, from Broome,  we boarded a small (very small) plane to begin our journey. I think it was either a five, or six seater including the pilot. For this trip anyway it certainly held only us four, plus the pilot.

Smallest plane I’ve ever been on

First stop was Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm located toward the top of the Dampier Peninsula.  We were treated to a land-based tour which gave us an insight into the fascinating history of pearling, and how some of the pearls from the farm are chosen to be recognised as being amongst the most sought after and beautiful South Sea Pearls in the world. We were even allowed to try on one of their beautiful strands apparently valued at the time at around $20,000. (As I remember it, we were watched very closely).

Pearls fit for a queen, or at least a celebrity

After morning tea we boarded a small sea plane and headed out over the Buccaneer Archipelago.

1st ever seaplane ride

The take off on the bumpy, red-dirt runway was a bit hair-raising to say the least, but when we saw what was  awaiting us below, it was worth every bone shaking bump. The  most breathtakingly, beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen, with colours so vivid they didn’t look real. To this day it’s hard to believe what we were seeing hadn’t been photo-shopped way beyond reality. The 50 or so square kilometres of brightly coloured azure seas, with over 800 rocky islands, each fringed with mangroves and the vividest of moss green vegetation looked surreal to say the least.

The most amazing scenery
Surreal colours
So many Islands

Finally, the little gap in Talbot Bay came into view – Horizontal Falls.

1st view of the falls below

Down we went, landing on the calm blue waters before gently gliding in to the pontoon that was to be our base for lunch and an afternoon of exploring the islands – and of course, our Horizontal Falls adventure.

Landed, although that doesn’t seem like the right term for a sea plane on the water

To be cont…..

Where do you keep your friends phone numbers

| Chris Riley

We’ve just shared a sausage sizzle with friends (Bruce and Wendy) and their four grandchildren who are camping nearby.

During the course of the afternoon Bruce shared the sad news that he has to return to Perth on Friday for a funeral. One of his friends passed away unexpectedly last week. He was only 62.

So – what has that to do with phone numbers….. Well the son of the deceased friend felt he should contact some of his dad’s friends with the sad news. However, all of the friends contact details are stored in his dad’s mobile phone, and he has no idea of the password to gain entry. Luckily the friends son is also face book friends with Bruce and Wendy’s son, and so contact with at least one friend was initiated, and from there further contacts have been found.

Our conversation today included a few, ‘what ifs’. What if we get killed together in an accident – do our families have access to our ‘contacts’. There was a time when we all either had an address book, or a teledex to list our friends and relatives contact details. Now,  if you’re like me, your address book will hold very little information, and your friends and relatives will all be listed in your mobile phone. A secret password will be needed to gain entry.

I don’t know about you, but I’m definitely letting my children know my phone’s password…..

An era ends

| Chris Riley

Just prior to Christmas we sold our rig, ending an era in our lives.

An era ends. We bid farewell to our beloved Travelhome

With the photo of the rig heading my blog since it’s inception, I feel as if I’ve lost my on line identity. However, in retrospect, and despite the intentions of what the blog set out to be, it twisted and turned, as did we, in all manner of directions. In reality both the blog, and Paul and I, had moved a long way from where we were heading in the beginning. Reality check, – perhaps that part of my identity never really eventuated, or existed.

Originally, the blog, lifeofrileyow.com was set up to record and represent the life we’d set out to have – the life of Riley on wheels, the wheels being our beloved Travelhome. However, life seemed to take us down an alternate path, and as you’re probably aware, last year we took ownership of a little house in Busselton. Our full time travel ended.

The blog continued throughout the often erratic times that led to the abandonment of the original plan. Whilst it didn’t remain true to it’s intention of recording ‘our life on wheels’, it never-the-less recorded the often erratic and always eclectic, Life of the Rileys, whether on wheels, or not.

Our rig will be replaced. We’ve bought half of it – a Prado, which will now be our only car. The other half of our rig will most definitely be replaced with a much smaller version. With our travel now likely to only be for a few months during the winter, and perhaps an occasional short summer trip, only a small van will be needed. We have our eye on a New Age Manta Ray 16ft, but that’s not yet confirmed. Whatever we end up with needs to be well within the legal weights allowable for a Prado tow.

With the departure of our rig we’ve been in need of a new blog identity. Not wanting to change the web address, we needed something more appropriate for the OW to represent. I searched my brain for something using OW that seemed to represent the eclectic direction our blog posts  have taken. Finally,  ‘On Whatever’ came to mind. However, I’d no sooner thought of it, and it had gone again. I was blank. I told Paul I was searching my brain for something for the OW to represent, and within a second he spat out ‘On Whatever’. So, ‘life of Riley – on whatever’, it is. Now all I have to do is find a photo for the cover page. I have a few in mind. Do any seem to reflect our often erratic, and always eclectic way of life? Or do I need to keep searching, perhaps wait for the new rig to arrive? What do you think?

Taken on our Gibb River trip last year
A rock window at Entrance point, Broome
having fun in the setting sun on Cable Beach
Feeding the birds at Port Stephens
In front of Mitchell Falls
Driving across Drysdale River

Perhaps there’s another photo already posted that you think would be appropriate. Let me know if there’s one stands out to you that I’ve overlooked.

The Busselton Jetty and it’s underwater observatory

| Chris Riley
So much to see

There’s so much to see and do in the Busselton/Margaret River, and it’s easy to get complacent about what’s on our own doorstep. Every now and again we set out on the tourist route, to get a fresh and renewed appreciation of this wonderful area that we have the good fortune to call, ‘home’.

Recently, we visited Busselton’s iconic jetty, took the train ride to the end of the almost 2 km long structure, and went down into the beautiful underwater observatory.

It’s a long walk out – we took the train

First  though a bit of background on the jetty:

In 1865 a 150metre long jetty was built to cater for cargo vessels importing and exporting timber and other produce to and from the Busselton area. The wooden jetty was continually extended until by 1960 it had reached 1841 metres, making it the longest timber jetty in the southern hemisphere.

However, by 1971 the jetty had ceased operation and quickly deteriorated, receiving little in the way of maintenance. Then in 1978 Cyclone Alby struck, taking out much of the first 700 metres of the old jetty. The government of the day decided to demolish the remainder.

They hadn’t counted on the spirit and tenacity of the people of Busselton. Groups were formed who successfully lobbied to obtain funding for the the restoration and upkeep of the structure. I’m so pleased they did.

Amazing life and colours on the piles

The encrusted piles of the jetty are predominately jarrah logs, 16 metres in length, sharpened at one end and driven 4 – 5 metres into the limestone seabed. The cross beans give the piles support and strength to support the decking above. The 12 metre wide decking provides the shade required for the unique marine life on the jetty piles beneath.

An underwater observatory was constructed for the jetty on land at Henderson Shipping yards, and then towed by tug boat to Busselton. Upon arrival, the 550 ton observatory was secured to the sea floor using 18metre long bolts, and opened officially to the public in December 2003.

The jetty is, without any doubt, the most iconic structure in Busselton. Extending out into Geographe Bay almost 2 kms, it remains the longest wooden pylon jetty in the southern hemisphere.

If you’ve never seen the delights that gather around jetty pylons, especially in the clear waters of Geographe Bay, you really must put a trip out to the underwater observatory on Busselton Jetty on your, ‘must see and do’ list.

What lies beneath is a stunningly beautiful underwater garden.

Soft white Telesto coral
Orange sponges, pretty pinks and blues – an underwater rainbow

You can walk the length of the jetty for a small fee, or there’s a train that can take you either one way or the return trip. I’d recommend visiting the observatory while you’re there.  There is a small cost involved to use the jetty, with a slightly bigger cost to take advantage of the train. The fees charged for using the jetty, and the admission fees to the observatory all contribute to the ongoing maintenance and restoration of the Jetty.

What a pleasure it is to live in Busselton!

Footnote: I’ve noticed posters popping up around town that indicate you can now ‘walk under the jetty’. I haven’t as yet checked out the details, but if you’re coming to the area you may want to check this option out.

No-one told me it was going to be this hard

| Chris Riley

Ok I’ve used crutches before, and they weren’t easy as I remember it. That was years ago when I tore a calf muscle in my left leg. I was allowed to put my injured left leg on the ground with the crutches taking the bulk of my weight, and I managed.

Today the reality of having the opposite leg, my dominant leg, out of action and not being allowed to put that foot to the ground at all paints a whole different picture of ‘hard’. Firstly I tried crutches, then a zimmer frame (yes you read that correctly – a zimmer frame).

Its so much harder having to keep your foot completely off the ground. Anyway I’m home now, but accompanying me is not only a zimmer frame, but also a wheel chair, and – wait for it, a toilet frame. Hells Bells…. who’d have thought it. Apparently its easier to get around after a hip or knee replacement than it is to get around after a tendon repair job.

I have to keep my foot raised above my heart level for 23 hours a day. Thank goodness I have my electronics, and books to read. Not to mention Paul…. Thank goodness for Paul. This won’t be the first time I’ve wondered what id do without him.

Forced rest

| Chris Riley

My fellow bloggers may have noticed I’ve been tardy at reading your posts over the past few weeks. This has partly been because of the busy season, but also has been deliberate.

For five years I’ve been trying to manage an ankle injury, without success. After having tried the less invasive treatments with little relief, late last year I sought the help of an orthopaedic surgeon. X-rays and MRI Scans confirmed damaged tendons in my ankle.

With surgery booked for today, and knowing I’m going to be laid up for several weeks, I’ve been stockpiling my emails, and posts of the blogs I follow to catch up on during my forced rest.

I had the surgery this morning, a tendon tear has been repaired, some bone has been removed, and whatever else needed has been done. My leg is currently in plaster, and will be for two weeks, followed by several weeks in a moonboot, and then physio. So, lots of forced rest, and plenty of time to catch up on everyone’s happenings.

I’m still in the capable hands of the nurses in hospital, but tomorrow I’ll return home to Paul’s care. Paul missed his true vocation. He would have made a brilliant nurse so I’m going to be in safe, caring hands.

It’ll be a while before I’m on my feet again, but I’m assured the surgery went well, and I can expect a successful result. I hope so.

I wonder how Mr Tilly will be tonight. I don’t think he suffers separation anxiety to the extent that some dogs suffer it, but he does definitely show a certain amount of anxiety when one of us is absent. A whole night with one of us not being there is sure to have him feeling just a little out of sorts. I’m sure he’s bound to give me a rousing welcome home in the morning. Just hope his welcoming exuberance doesn’t literally bowl me off my good leg.

And now it’s time to get stuck into my waiting emails and blog posts.