16 August, day 12 of our chasing sun and wildflowers trip

We drove over to Town Beach on Roebuck Bay this morning and while there had a walk around the tiny pioneer cemetery. There are only a scattering of graves, but wandering amongst the aged headstones did wonders for my imagination.

In the early 1900s Broome was a thriving town built around the pearling industry. We talk about multiculturalism in Australia today, but Broome in her heyday was a real melting pot of multiculturalism long before the word even came into existence. Sea faring captains left their high sea commissions and bought up pearl lugging fleets in Broome – there was money to be made in the pearl industry. Most of the money came from pearl shells for the manufacture of, amongst other things, buttons. Any pearls found in the shells was a coveted bonus. Chinese, Malays, Japanese, Dutch, and goodness knows how many other ethnic groups journeyed here to get their share, plying whatever supporting industry they could offer to the booming town. The less savoury part of the early history was the practice of ‘black birding’, the capturing of aboriginal folk to use as slaves on the pearling luggers. Yes, Australia has done a lot worse by our native land owners than stealing a generation….. and the practice of black birding was long after the abolition of slavery in the southern states of America.

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I wonder what the love story of Alfred and Ruby Morgan was. There’s no mention of children, I wonder if they died childless. Ruby was 18 years younger than Alfred, did he treat her with kindness.

This headstone had me intrigued. What did Phyllis Everett McDaniel do that warranted, “a valiant woman” to be engraved on her headstone. I’m sure there’s an historical/fiction story that could be inspired by such an inscription. I briefly looked to see what facts I could find:

Phyllis was married to Master Pearler, Daniel McDaniels. They moved to Broome in the early 1900s, so I’m guessing Phyllis must have been a teenage bride. How hard must that have been – I’m presuming she would have left her family and friends behind to move to Broome. Without the comforts we have today, would she have felt lonely and found Broome to be ‘a God forsaken place’, or would she have been welcomed into to bosom of Broome society and would she have fallen in love with this unique and wonderful land. Did Daniel cherish his teenage bride, did she love him in return? I’m gathering she must have at least called Broome home by the time she was widowed in 1955 as she continued to live here for a further 24 years. Passing away at the grand old age of 90, I wonder what went on in her long life to warrant the inscription of “a valiant woman”. I can’t think of anything grander than that for a tombstone epitaph, can you!

15 August, day 11 of our sun and wildflowers trip

As we spend a lot of time on the beach, a comfortable beach chair is a must. Our old chairs gave up last season in Broome, so Paul did some on line research, and bought us two new ones for Christmas. He thought these, Tommy Bahama chairs looked pretty good. When they arrived they exceeded expectations by a country mile.

The frame is Aluminium, so extremely lightweight. Folded down they’re very easy to put on our backs, and being so light, we hardly know they’re there.

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If we’re driving to a spot on the beach this isn’t so important, but if we want to swim near the life guards on Cable Beach, we have a bit of a trek from the car park to the area on the beach where dogs are allowed. Lightweight, and easy to carry is a must.

They have lots of pouches, two on the back that hold towels, books, drink bottles and more, and two hanging from the arm for phones, glasses or whatever.

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They unfold (and fold up easily), and once unfolded, they can be adjusted to various positions from sitting upright to completely laid back.

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The bar on the back serves as a towel, sarong holder, or a support leg if we decide we want to lay our chairs flat.

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The biggest problem when going to the beach is lugging enough stuff there so as you can be comfortable and shaded. With our towels, phones, books, and drink bottles stowed in the chair, and the chair easily carried on our backs, we have our hands free. I take charge of Mr Tilly, who must remain on a leash until we get to the dog area of the beach, and paul carries our beach umbrella. We get quite a few envious comments, and I understand why. As far as beach chairs go, they’re the best we’ve seen, and so easy! Thank you Paul, a wonderful Christmas present that hopefully will keep on providing comfort for many years to come.

13 & 14 August

The population of Broome is somewhere around 16,000 people. Currently there are around 87,000 people up here, and during the recent school holidays that number was around 95,000. As you can imagine the internet isn’t equipped to cope with such an expansion. Doing anything at all on the internet hasn’t been easy, writing a blog post very difficult, and uploading photos, virtually impossible. Never mind, the Broome Racing cup is on today. The week following the cup usually sees a mass exodus. I think there’ll likely be a few more people here in the coming weeks than usual, but hopefully enough people will leave to allow reasonable internet access again.

The shire is trialling the use of temporary self contained accommodation in one of the beach car parks. Self contained is supposed to include an on board toilet and shower, and contained waste (an onboard grey water tank for used water).

I doubt the above vehicle is compliant with the rules, and there are many more just like this in the car park overnight. I’m told the shire is turning a blind eye, as with accommodation fully utilised in the town there is absolutely no accommodation available for transient workers. The workers have to stay somewhere, and the town needs all the transient workers it can get. There aren’t enough in town. Restaurants are booked up a week or more in advance, and a 40 minute wait for coffee isn’t unusual. Some small operators are apparently offering up some form of accommodation with a job, and many townsfolk are letting out a room in their homes.

Since Covid has started this is a story often told throughout Western Australia. I don’t know if it’s the same on the East Coast. With no-one able to go on overseas holidays or cruises, everyone is holidaying on home soil. Leases in permanent rental houses are often not being renewed because the landlords can quadruple their rents when leasing their houses as short term holiday accommodation. The short term holiday accommodation is expensive, too expensive for transient workers, and is booked months in advance.

For us on a personal basis, our holiday life is much the same though as usual. We don’t often eat out, nor do we often go out for coffee. Our holiday pleasures are predominantly simple. We’re happy spending time either walking on the beach, or cooling off in the ocean, and then sitting in our beach chairs with a book under the shade of our beach umbrella. Next week when some of the tourists have gone home, we’ll venture further afield to see what changes the town has undergone in the year since we were last here, and we’ll break up our home cooking with a restaurant or two. In the meantime we’re happy to sit back and leave any restaurant tables for those who rely on them more than we have too.

One thing we’ll often treat ourselves to is an ice cream from the beach kiosk, but we learnt last year that’s a treat we can’t rely on like we’d been used to in pre-Covid days. Last year we waited over 1/2 an hour to buy an ice cream. We’ve taken care of that this year by including a box of Ice cream splices with our shopping, Tills eagerly, and patiently watches us when we remove one from our caravan fridge. I’m sure most dogs would gulp it down in a few seconds flat, but not Mr Tilly. He enjoys and savours every morsel of the little bit we save for him, licking around the stick as we turn it for him.

He’s like that with all his food. We can put his favourite food, roast chicken, in a bowl for him. He’ll go and sniff it, then walk away and think about for a minute or two. Then he returns to the bowl and delicately eats it all up.

And that’s about all I dare write for today, and I think I’ve only been able to write this because the hoards are busying themselves at the races and giving the internet a bit of a break. The races will be over soon, so I’d better get this published while I’m able too. I’ll show you a bit around Broome in the next week or so hopefully, so watch this space…..

12 August

Dry windy conditions do nothing for ones skin and hair. Moisturising helps with the skin, but my hair, constantly blowing in my face and eyes, was driving me bonkers. A sign at a nearby caravan advertising hair cuts tempted me in. “What are we doing today?” asks Cheryl. “Something to get the hair off my face”, I answer. Half an hour later it’s off my face, it’s definitely off my face.

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We took the beach umbrella, beach chairs and boogie boards to the beach for a few hours in the afternoon. The waves were just perfect for granny’s or small children. Just powerful enough to push you to shore, but not powerful enough to dump you and roll you around like a washing machine agitator.

Then back to the caravan with just enough time to shower (and tossle my new do into some sort of mis-shape (can’t have it looking too neat), throw together the makings of dinner and we were off to meet friends for a barbecue. A pleasant night on a lovely, balmy, Broome evening. Tills is done in, up on the bed snoring. I think I’ll join him.

11 August

it was Ladies Day at the Broome Racing Carnival yesterday, and on Saturday the carnival will culminate with the Broome cup. This is traditionally the biggest week of the tourist season in Broome, and following the cup the tourists start leaving in their droves. With the town currently bursting at the seams like never before I’m sure the resident towns folk will breath a sigh of relief as they see the town begin to return to normality. It must be frustrating for them to walk around their supermarket with shelves stripped bare by tourists, and then to have to queue for 20 mins at the checkout – yes it’s that busy.

The crowds haven’t bothered us as yet. We’re enjoying staying at the RAC caravan park, which is the closest park to Cable Beach. It’s a difficult park to get into, and has taken us several years to secure a booking. It means we can take Tills for his early morning beach walk without having to get in the car. This morning the tide was low, so we explored around the rock pools. I love the way the receding tide leaves forest like patterns in the sand.

There are a lot of dinosaur prints in the rocks around Broome. We took a Hoovercraft flight a few years ago and were shown quite a few. https://lifeofrileyow.com/2017/06/11/broomes-own-jurassic-park/ They’re quite distinctive once you know what you’re looking at. Apparently as the tide washes away layers from the rocks, more prints are often discovered. I think we found one this morning.

I finally managed to give the caravan a good clean. We left home in a bit of a hurry so the caravan hasn’t been as well organised as usual. I think I have it sorted now! I don’t know about you, but I struggle to be able to relax if my environment is cluttered and messy. After the van was spic and span, Tills was next. Paul shampooed him in the shower. I towel dried him, then clipped his nails. He decided his reward for being obliging should be a walk. He picked up his lead and shook it in front of me – that was a first. It was just too cute to ignore, so we grabbed our towels and walked him over to the beach for a swim and some relaxation on the sand.

Apart from that the day was uneventful. The trip up here is long and tiring, but it only takes a couple of days of being here to feel the stresses from the trip melting away. I didn’t think we were going to make it this year. I’m so glad we did. As always, being in Broome – what a pleasure!

10 August

Paul usually walks Tills first thing in the morning while I slowly ease into the day. I don’t know what came over me today, a bit of a mad moment perhaps. I awoke just before 6am, Paul was still sleeping, so I thought, ‘what the heck.’ I dressed as quietly as I could, and was heading out the caravan door with Tills just as Paul awoke with a look of surprise. I told him which way we were going and before I’d reached the caravan park gate he had joined us.

A short walk and we were on the beach with one happy little dog. I’m reminded that our frequent holidays in Broome, together with our daily walks on Busselton beaches provided the inspiration for acquiring a dog. These two places are doggie heaven and it just didn’t seem right to be walking in doggie heaven without a dog.

I’ve had in mind to find some pink abstract pictures for our bedroom walls. Today’s sunrise reflected in the wet sands had me thinking…..

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I’m sure enough pink sunrises here and I’ll be able to play around with the photos to create my own group of pink abstracts.

A quiet day with a bit of business to attend do, and a good chance to change and wash the bed linen. Then cooking and packing up dinner to take to the beach with friends at sunset. Tonight’s dinner is a honey soy cooked chook, with jasmine rice, and a side of pickled vegetables. I love how pickled vegetables can elevate an otherwise bland meal.

We headed away from the main beaches to the quieter and very picturesque, Reddell Beach. It’s located down a rough dirt track, so that keeps the hoards away. Our two favourite beaches for photo opportunities are Reddell Beach, and then Entrance Point.

And of course we had to have our obligatory ‘cable beach sunset’ cocktails before dinner. This has become a bit of an institution for us and our friends, and I’m sure Brian and Kaye would feel very neglected if we failed in our bar tending duties. It’s our take on a Tequilla sunrise, but usually we make it with vodka. Tonight though I had Tequilla, but as we’re in Broome it’ll still be called, ‘Cable Beach Sunset’.

I mentioned the beach was less accessible than the popular cable beach. That definitely proved to be the case. The rough track to get there was fine, but I’d forgotten about the trek from the car park to the beach. Fine if you’re just going there for a walk and to admire the sunset, but lugging chairs, dinner and cocktails. – note to oneself, ‘not a good idea’.

Dinner and company was good, but there was a cool breeze blowing. We loaded up and lugged everything back to the car not long after the sun dropped over the horizon and back to the caravan park for ice creams, and a cuppa.

9 August

A short days driving for our final day of the trip up to Broome, and thank goodness for that. Paul is looking weary, and Mr Tilly has us wondering if we’re not guilty of cruelty to animals. We appease our guilty conscience by knowing that if he understood that if it was a choice between long travel days with us, or staying at home with someone other than us, we know without a doubt which he’d choose. As far as he is concerned, the pack must always stay together!

There was no point in leaving early as book in time is usually around mid day, so we had a leisurely start to the day. I even gave the van a bit of a clean.

A few ant hills appear to break the otherwise monotony of the flat scenery.

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Other than that, I’d like to say it was uneventful trip, and as far as the trip was, that much is true. However a phone call from a very dear friend as we neared Broome provided us with his medical update – bad news. It seems his lung cancer has spread, and a mass has been found in his brain. He and his wife are both in good spirits and hoping for the best. Tests won’t be completed for a few days yet, so more will be known later in the week. It sounds like the only good news we can hope to hear though is a prognosis that gives more than a few months. Very upsetting news!

We arrived before our site was ready. Our good friends Brian and Kaye, already up here came to the rescue with ham sandwiches and cup of tea. Mr Tilly was thrilled. He loves Brian and Kaye. Their caravan (new to them) has a door that separates into two, apparently called a doggie door. You can see why. It looks like he’s ready to take our lunch order.

Once set up, we did most of the washing from the trip, then had a refreshing dip in the pool. Afternoon coffee with friends, and it was time to take Tills to the beach for his much promised walk. This time we drove up to Gantheume Point. Broome is currently heaving with people, so there were literally hundreds of cars park on the sand. We parked up, and walked for half an hour up the beach again, then back again, wondering all the time if we’d manage to find our car when we returned.

We had only gone to there to give Tills a decent run. Most people were there with beach chairs, drinks a nibbles – cause that’s what ya do in Broome! That’s what Broome’s all about, driving up the beach to swim, or fish, or walk, or sit and read a book, but mostly driving onto the beach to see the sun sink over the horizon at the days end.

Any beach is Mr Tilly’s happy place. He’s talking to us again. And so ends our first day in Broome for 2021, as always it’s a pleasure to be here.

8 August 2021

A warm evening yesterday, and no moon, so again the night sky was amazing. We looked for satellites but none appeared. We only seem to notice them in the sky when there’s a moon, maybe there needs to be some moonlight to show them up. No shooting stars either! Oh well, maybe tonight.

We sat outside playing cards by the light of a battery lamp. Being warm there were plenty of insects but the lamplight had their attention, so they seemed to leave us alone. We knew we couldn’t have a light on in the caravan to read by as those pesky little night flyers find their way around the best of insect screens to a light source. It was around 8pm when we’d had enough of card games, and starry skies – almost a late night!

There were a lot of trucks on the road throughout the night, so not a really sound deep, but being in bed for 9 hours it didn’t seem to matter. We both awoke reasonably refreshed around 5am. A cuppa in bed, and I finished my book. It was a good read, I’d recommend it – ‘Water for Elephants’. A good insight into how much progress we’ve made into preventing animal cruelty, particularly in the circus world. Also a good insight into the grimness of life during the Great Depression in America.

We were on the road again at 7.45am, Paul and I eager for the next, and second to last leg on our journey to Broome, Mr Tilly not so eager. Tills definitely showed his reluctance to get into the car. As I write this his back is turned firmly away from us as he sits in the back seat. He even refused a piece of sausage saved from last nights dinner especially to bribe him with. He’s clearly not going to be bribed.

Whilst the countryside just north of Newman is up there with my favourites, the countryside between Port Hedland and Broome is about my least favourite. It’s mainly flat and scrubby, with a few bleak looking shrubs, and barely even ant hills to add a bit of interest.

Another escort vehicle came towards us waving us for the road. Holy, moly – this one was BIG! We were right off the road, but still there was barely a metre between us and the load as it hurtled past. Certainly broke the monotony of the scenery, it was the biggest load we’ve encountered yet. That white line is the one usually on our left.

We arrived at Stanley about 2.45pm, and shared a large gazebo with a trio also travelling towards Broome. Two of the trio came from Tassie, and their place of work uses a catering company in Tassie owned by a good friend of ours. The third member of the trio lives just around the road from where we lived when we were in Perth. It’s a small world!

Entertainment for the evening was again compliments of a brilliantly clear night sky. Two definite satellites spotted, one definite aeroplane (thought to be a satellite at first), and a fourth moving light which could have been a satellite, or could have been a plane. Again, too many night fliers to have a light on indoors to read by, so lights were out by 8.15pm. Zzzzz

7 August 2021

Hamburgers, mulled wine, and toasted marshmallows kept us up a little later last night. We nearly made to 8pm! A few pages of my book and I was out to it. Not such a good nights sleep last night, sometimes I get a reaction to wine, or in fact any alcohol. I think it’s the histamines, but whatever it is, my blocked nose reaction doesn’t make for a good nights sleep. I’m not a big drinker at the best of times, but I do like to enjoy the occasional drink, especially on holiday. I only had one drink of mulled wine…….today I’m saying it will be my last drink ever. We’ll see!

Awake at 5am, I read a couple of chapters of my book, ‘Water for Elephants’. It’s a good read, light and easy going, and it has me wanting to know how it’ll finish. It’s getting difficult to put down. Shower, breakfast and dishes out of the way, and we were on the road again at 8am. The weathers definitely warming up, and I suspect I’ll be in shorts tomorrow. My Marino jumper has given way to a long sleeved t-shirt, I’m sure I’ll be sleeveless tomorrow.

We stop at a roadhouse for fuel as we by-pass Newman. After Newman comes the most spectacular Pilbara scenery, real iron ore country.

This is probably my favourite drive in WA. I’ve heard people say it’s very much like Africa. The red rock and soil, the yellow tussocky grass, the wild flowers that border the roads, the rock piles, and the crevices and ridges in the ranges – it’s all so wild, so raw, so beautiful.

We arrive at Two Camel Creek around 3pm. It was pleasantly warm, so no need for a fire. I used an hour or two to sort the van out a bit, stashing the winter bedding under the bed, and organising the cupboards.

Apologies if each days account of our trip jumps tense from time to time. I’m trying to write as we travel along, as well as taking photos from the car window. The photos are sometimes a bit blurry, but to stop for good shots would add unwanted time to our travel days. As I type the Internet drops in and out, and sometimes I end up losing a lot of what I’ve written, and sometimes I start writing in the present tense, but then it might be the next day before I have internet cover again. It makes for patchy writing. Never mind, hope you enjoy some of the photos anyway.